Log Home Common Problems
With over 30 years of experience restoring and repairing log homes, Edmunds & Company has developed an extensive knowledge about common problems that some log home owners experience over time. These problems include:
Rotted logs
In the photo to the right, water was allowed to run down the wall due to improper flashing on the dormer above. Overtime, the entire corner rotted out. When the rot makes its way trough more than 50% of the log, we typically replace the whole log. Click here to see how we replace whole logs such as these. The following two links will give you more information on rotten logs: What is Dry Rot and Why Do Logs Rot.
We use Western red cedar and other rot resistant wood as our replacement logs. For more information, click here.
This is why we can say that OUR LOGS WILL NOT ROT!
See our WARRANTY.
The "shelf problem" common with cabin logs
Some of the worst log rot we have seen over the years is on homes made from "cabin logs”. These are round logs that are flattened on the top and bottom to allow them to be stacked easily on top of one another.
While this is one of the fastest and least costly ways to build a log home, it can also be a recipe for decay down the road. What happens is that when it rains, the water running down the wall is allowed to sit on these "shelves” that are created by a smaller diameter log sitting on top of a larger one. Over time rot can occur in the log and eventually this log will need to be replaced.
After repairing rotten logs in a home with cabin logs we often recommend chinking the home to prevent rot in the future. Click here to see an example of a project where we repaired rotten "cabin logs" and chinked the entire home.
Other relevant links:
Chinking and caulking
Log rot
Why do logs rot
Sand, cob, and glass blasting
Darkening, pealing or grayed finish on the logs
Basically what is happening is that moisture is building up behind the finish
and causing the log to rot. Too much finish can form an impermeable layer
on the surface of the log. Moisture (in the form of rain) is always making its way into the logs - most likely through a crack or check on the surface. Once inside the log, it soaks into the wood. Then when the rain stops, the moisture tries to make its way out that crack again AND since the moisture has dissipated into the log’s core - it is also trying to make its way out via the entire surface of the log. Now, the moisture content is high in the log. 
Unfortunately, this moisture is trapped, to a large degree, by a finish that can no longer breathe. This situation eventually causes rot. Any time moisture is allowed to build up within a log, the conditions for rot are ideal. (See "Why Do Logs Rot”) For more information on how to restore the beauty of your log home finish, click here.
We see this problem a lot and it tends to be on more modern, hand-scribed homes that have a type of finish that builds up a film with each application. These conditions can cause the "perfect storm" for rot because this build up of finish has formed a veritable ‘plastic bag’ on the outside of the logs - trapping moisture –and the logs can rot fast.
Note: In this photo, notice the up-facing cracks that let the moisture in and the finish build up that would not let it out. This eventually caused this log to rot.
| Click here to see an example of how we fix this problem with darkening logs. |
Sometimes we see buildings with this type of finish buildup on them when they are less than ten years old. In the case of newer homes like these, the logs have a relatively high moisture content to begin with (new logs are often green), which is compounded when the "film building" finish is applied. Problems can arise after even the second or third coat of this type of finish. Our experience has shown that many of these buildings start off with a finish that is breathable enough, but once the second or third coat is applied, the finish becomes too thick (buildup) and forms a barrier to the log breathing.
Two things will need to be done: 1) repair any damage that has accrued i.e. log replacement if necessary and 2) address the build up of finish on the logs. Most times this means getting rid of the current finish through cob or sandblasting.
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| This is a good example of pealing finish that needs to be removed before a new finish can be applied. Click here to find out more about our finishing process. | Notice how dark the upper part of the logs have gotten. These logs need either sand or cob blasting before a new finish can be applied. Click here to learn about our sand and cob blasting procedures. |
Here, layers of paint have built up and made it difficult for the logs to breath. The result was significant rot. In this situation, the rotten logs must be replaced and then the building need to be blasted to remove the layers of paint. There are many reasons why logs rot. This is a common one.
Paint will eventually peal and leave the logs unprotected. Does your log cabin or home have pealing paint? See how we fix this problem. Click here.
Sap or pitch seeping out of the logs
We have seen a number of log-sided and full log homes that have real problems with pitch seeping out of the logs. Most are homes built within the past 20 years and all are made of some species of pine, be it eastern, white or Norway pine. Most of the time pitch does stop coming out after about five years. Often in these cases, the logs need to be blasted to remove the pitch and then the logs need to be re-stained.
In extreme cases, pitch can continue to seep out for many years. It is my opinion that this is happening because the stain on the logs is acting as a blocker and once the stain begins to get older, it starts to fail and break down and this “blocking” effect goes away. When this happens, the sap is allowed to flow again. Here is an article entitled: "Effective Management of Resin Exudation from Eastern White and Red Pine" done by the University of Maine. Just in case you want more information on this and what resin blockers might be able to do, click here for a PDF of this study.
Rot where the logs meet the chimney
Many times we see rot near the transition where the log joins with a stone or masonry chimney. It is particularly important to seal this area. We recommend that the rot be repaired first and then the transition between the chimney and the wood must be one that does not allow moisture to migrate between the two surfaces. Many times chinking is the best option for these areas because it is flexible and comes in colors that match the gray mortar very well. Click here to see how we fixed this problem.
For more information, click on Why Do Logs Rot.
Here is a drawing of how to flash around a chimney.
Rot on the bottom of the posts:
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This Pine post was surrounded by mulch and soil, the footing was poured below grade so the bottom of the post was allowed to soak up moisture. |
As you can see these conditions caused the post to eventually rot. | |
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| This type of rot will eventually cause the post to collapse. | Here is a correctly installed Western cedar post. It is above grade and has a galvanized steel spacer installed (Simpson PBV10) between the post and the footing. |
Click here for more information on the type of wood we use for our replacement logs. Contact us for an estimate on replacing the rotten posts in your log home or cabin. Are porcupines chewing on your home?There are many problems that one can face as a log home owner but one that is particularly annoying and problematic is when critters start gnawing you your logs. Often log cabins are second homes, which typically means that they are left unattended for weeks at a time or longer.
If you have had the unpleasant "calling card" left behind when a porcupine has chewed on your logs, we have some information to share. We did a blog posting where we consulted with Scott Cravin (Extension Wildlife Specialist and Professor of Wildlife Ecology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison) for an explanation as to why porcupines are drawn to log homes in particular. Click here to find out more. Air and water leaking around window trim
An often over-looked area as far as chinking goes is the transition between the windows and the back side of the trim of the windows. If left un-sealed, these cavities become places where water and air can make its way into the home. The other reason to fill these cavities is that critters (bats, bees and mice) love these areas and find it a fitting home or way to get into your house. If you have trim that needs to be chinked we can help. Contact us or call 877-378-4403. Improperly flashed roof often causes rot
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| Here you can see the discoloration of the log ends due to the moisture they have been exposed to. Logs exposed to these conditions WILL ROT - it is only a matter of time. (See Why Do Logs Rot) | Here a curb is created so that water running down the roof does not run directly against the logs in this area. A freeboard is also created so that during the winter, snow and ice are not held directly against the logs. In this situation, we replaced the rotted logs and cut in the flashing so that this new flashing detail could be installed. Click here for a drawing of the proper way to flash an upper log wall to a lower roof system. | ||||
Cantilevered decks
In our assessment, there are basically three options for the home owner: 3) Convert the deck into a roof. To do this, we take off the railings and decking, make a new platform and create a flat roof. |
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Mortar chink vs. synthetic chink
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Many times on log walls or dormers, the log ends are left too close to the roof deck. What happens is that rain soaks these log members and this allows too much moisture to build up in the logs, which eventually causes logs to rot. Installing a proper flashing detail along these roof lines is the solution. 
Cantilevered log decks are a potential area for problems with rotten logs. We run into this type of deck a number of times each year. A cantilever deck is a deck that is supported by a log that sticks through a wall (on the outside) and supports a deck. These decks are usually located on the second floor of a log home and most times are small in size. 
Many older log homes have had mortar chinking installed over the years. Mortar chinking was mainly used from the 1950's through the 1980's. The problem with this type of chinking is twofold: One, it does not make a proper seal between the logs and two, it tends to hold moisture up against the logs, possibly adding to the potential for rot.
Today, we use synthetic chinking such as PermaChink. This "modern" chinking has much the same appearance as the old mortar but unlike mortar, it will seal completely and not soak up moisture, which can cause logs to rot. Many times, we can apply new chink over existing mortar chinking but in other situations, the mortar chink needs to be removed before the synthetic chink can be installed.
Problems with lodge pole pine log buildingsWhat unique problems do these types of log homes have? Sometimes the logs used to build them have begun to decay before they even become a log home. The other common thing we see is that these logs tend to hide rot because they typically rot from the inside out. To check out one of the restoration jobs we did that had these specific problems, click here. |
Epoxy does not work as a solution for checks in logs
One of the "fixes" that we run into is is the use of epoxy as a filler for checks or cracks in logs. As this photo shows, it really does not fix the problem. First, it does not match the look of the wood and second, it does not hold up over time.
The problem with using epoxy is that when it dries, it is hard and rigid and therefore, unable to expand or contract with the logs. Eventually, it will pull away from the log and once again, you are faced with the problem of moisture making its way into the log and that can lead to ROT! (See "Why Do Logs Rot")
In this photo you see an example of where we cut off the rotten crown (log end) and replaced it with a new, fitted crown made from dried Cedar. (See "Our Cedar Logs")
The question to ask is this: Does it make sense to replace wood on a wooden house with wood or epoxy?
Here are two related links to check out:
Replacing Crowns
Replacing Logs
Window sills that are pitched toward the window
To avoid problems from water, it is best if windowsills are pitched away from the window. The window sills on some homes are pitched back towards the window. Water sat on this sill (to the right) and over time, the log rotted out. Notice the dark streaks below the window.
As you can see, it is very important to get the water to pitch away from
the window. Whether you are in the design phase with your contractor or
addressing this problem on an existing log home, you need to pitch the windowsills away from the home. We do this one of two ways - either by grinding the sill with a sanding disk or in cases where more wood needs to
be removed - we use a chain saw and then grind the log sill to take out the marks left by the saw. For more information click on Why Do Logs Rot.
Contact us or call 1-877-378-4403.
Improper flashing where a deck connects to a log wall can cause problems
As this photo to the right demonstrates, when a deck is not properly flashed to a log wall, water can travel along the log wall and cause considerable rot. Click here to see a diagram of the proper way to flash a deck to a log wall.
How to properly flash a chimney to a log wall
We have see some real problems when a chimney is not properly flashed to a log wall. Water gets behind the logs and is trapped, causing the moisture content in the log to become significant and rot takes hold.
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Click here for a drawing of how to properly flash a chimney to a log wall.
Problems with insects
Boring insects are a common problem that we see in log homes and cabins. The boring insects that we have in the Midwest are commonly the carpenter ant/bee and the powderpost beetle. These insects bore into your home leaving in their path small holes in the logs and a bit of dust.
The most common insect in log homes is the carpenter ant. The carpenter ant infests wood that is rotting, although they do not cause the rot. The holes these carpenter ants bore are about ¼” in diameter.
Powderpost beetles are also common in log homes but they don't generally do structural damage and are most times not the best indicator of rotting wood. Their holes are the size of a pencil lead. Neither of these insects do structural damage to the logs themselves but carpenter ants may be a warning sign to you that your logs are getting wet or have some rot in them.
Part of the defense against these insects is boron compounds. Borates work by raising the Ph level of the wood to the point where the rot organism is impeded, and subsequently, the bugs are less able to attack it. Bottom line, most times boring insects indicate a larger problem with rot. (See "Why Do Logs Rot")
The wood boring insects that we have in the upper Midwest (carpenter ants and the powderpost beetle) can only digest deteriorated wood. This really makes them a symptom more than a problem in and of themselves. By getting rid of the rot/moisture problem, the bugs will have no food source and will leave or die back. On the other hand, termites can do extensive damage to wood that is not rotting. If you suspect you have termites, contact a local professional exterminator to help assess the problem and come up with a plan to get rid of them.
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The rot was in the middle of the log and you can clearly see where they were attacking. Notice the flying stage (look for wings) of carpenter ants in the upper left of this photo. It is difficult to tell if you have carpenter ants or bees because the ant has this flying stage. In the end, it really doesn't matter - they both do the same thing... eat rot. |
Notice the honey combing that the ants do as they "excavate the rot". Plenty of "food" for them. Until you get rid of the rot, you can't control the population of boring insects. |
We posted some information on our blog on this topic. Click here to check it out.
Vertical logs can be problematic on log homes
Vertical logs are particularly susceptible to rot because of the fact that the end grain of the log faces down. Many times the logs sit directly on a cement foundation that wicks moisture into the logs. Other times, a dimensional wood sill was used but this sill was allowed to hold water against the log ends because it was not pitched away from the house.
See how we fix this type of problem. Click here.
Here you can see very bad decay in these vertical logs. |
If you have a problem with insects or rotting logs that needs attention, contact us. Here are two links with more information: how we repair logs or about rot prevention.
Edmunds & Company Log Home Restorations
We solve all sorts of problems with log homes, cabins, saunas, and other types of log buildings. Contact us for an estimate. Our toll free number is 1-877-378-4403.