Q: How do I recognize a rotted log?
A: A solid log has a clear ring when tapped with a small hammer but you will hear a dull thump if you tap a rotted log in the same way. Also see Why Do Logs Rot?
Q: I see little pinholes in a log in my cabin and sometimes there is sawdust below it? What does this mean?
A: You probably have some powderpost beetles in that log. They don't do structural damage and do not indicate rotting wood. There is another insect, the carpenter ant, which infests wood that is rotting although they do not cause the rot. The holes carpenter ants bore are slightly larger - about one quarter inch in diameter - than the ones made by powderpost beetles. Neither of these insects do structural damage to the logs themselves but carpenter ants may be a warning sign to you that your logs are getting wet or have some rot in them. Both insects can be controlled with boron compounds (See Preserve Finish). Mix up the borate preservative according to instructions then use a glue syringe to squirt a small amount into each hole. To close the hole, dab a bit of caulk on each one.
Q: What are my options for plugging the gaps between my logs?
A : You can use siliconized latex caulk or synthetic chinking. Gaps larger than 3/8" should be filled with chink. (See Chinking)
Q: How far will you travel for a log restoration project?
A: Anywhere in the USA. We are located in Wisconsin. 75% of our projects are in Minnesota and Wisconsin. Our work has taken us from the upper Midwest to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, to Vermont, and south to Florida. We especially like Florida projects during our winter months. We can say with confidence that no one has the level of expertise that our company has when it comes to repairing and restoring log homes. IT’S ALL WE DO! Contact us
Q: What's happening when my windows and doors get stuck and become difficult to open or close?
A: Probably, your logs have settled or the foundation has moved slightly. Either of these problems can be solved if you don't wait too long.
Q: Is there any log that can't be replaced in a log house?
A: No. We have replaced logs in virtually any spot from the sill log to ridgepole. However, some are more complicated than others to replace and take more time and ingenuity to replace. (See Replacing Logs)
Q: How do I know if my cabin needs to have a finish applied?
A: Squirt a small amount of water on the logs in several different areas. If beads of water do not form on the surface, it needs finish or stain. Flaking and peeling also indicate a problem with your finish. If a stain on a log building is peeling or flaking, it may need to be removed in order to expose a suitable surface for the stain to adhere to. (See Cob and Sandblasting)
In most cases, we do not power wash buildings to remove failed stains and coatings. One reason is that moisture is the cause of rot and most times adding moisture in combination with pressure is a recipe for disaster with log homes and cabins. (See Why Logs Rot?)
Q: I see darkening or rotting adjacent to where a roof comes into an upper log wall, what can be done about this?
A: Improper flashing of these upper roof systems is one of the most common problems we encounter with log homes. If the logs are truly rotted they must be replaced and then the roof system must be properly flashed. If the logs are merely weathered then one can install flashing to prevent this weathering from happening in the future. The place where a roof system meets a log wall is one of the most likely places for your roof to leak as well as a place where the logs see added moisture due to splashing from the roof or snow and ice piling up in this area. So making this flashing detail as bomb proof as possible is of the utmost importance in order to save the adjacent logs and to prevent a roof leak. Click here for a drawing of the proper way to flash an upper log wall to a lower roof system.
Q: My roof seems to be leaking around the chimney but it doesn’t seem to be leaking where the roof meets the chimney. What could be causing this leak?
A: In most cases, leaks come from three different places. First, it could be leaking at the point where the flashing meets the roof line around the base of the chimney. Second, the masonry or rock itself could be cracked or improperly sealed, which allows it to soak up moisture. A third possibility is the lack of a properly installed chimney cap. A chimney cap is a cement slab poured on top of the exsisting masonry chimney. The cap acts as a roof for the chimney, keeping the majority of water off the chimney. It is also very important that the chimney be properly sealed around the mortar, stone or bricks to prevent leaking. Click here for more on how to properly install a chimney cap.
Q: I am putting on a new deck or replacing a deck on my existing home. How do I make sure my logs are protected from moisture surrounding my deck?
A: It is of the utmost importance that the transition between the logs and the deck be an absolutely watertight joint in order to prevent your logs from rotting. This is accomplished, in part, with flashing. A cut is made into the logs 2-3 inches above the level of the top of the deck and about 2 inches deep, at an upward angle. Ice and Water Shield is then applied to the area just below the cut and extending to the lowest point of the deck framing. A coat of stain should be applied to the area where the deck is going to be attached in order to better protect this area. When the rim joist is applied, lag bolts should be driven into the logs thru the Ice and Water Shield. Once the frame of the deck is built, the flashing can be installed and then the decking. The last step in this process is to run a bead of chink or caulk along the upper edge where the flashing meets the logs. Click here for a drawing of the proper way to flash a deck to a log wall to prevent decay and rot of your log home.
Q: I see darkening or rotting adjacent to where a roof comes into an upper log wall. What can be done about this?
A: Improper flashing of these upper roof systems is one of the most common problems we encounter with log homes. If the logs are truly rotted, they must be replaced and then the roof system must be properly flashed. If the logs are merely weathered, then one can install flashing to prevent this weathering from happening in the future.
The place where a roof system meets a log wall is one of the most likely places for your roof to leak as well as a place where the logs see added moisture due to splashing from the roof or snow and ice piling up in this area. Making this flashing detail as “bomb proof” as possible is of the utmost importance in order to save the adjacent logs and to prevent a roof from leaking. Click here for a drawing of the proper way to flash an upper log wall to a lower roof system. You can give this PDF drawing to your deck builder.
This is a place where rot can take hold due to improper flashing.
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