Posts Tagged ‘maintaining log homes/cabins’

Log home refinishing – Best practices for removing old finish

In the log home refinishing business, we get asked many times each year about the advantages of blasting logs with a “dry” vs. “wet” process to remove old finish.

blasting off finishWe have found that in most cases, the blasting process or “dry” process (be it corn cob, crushed glass or sand) is the right process for the logs. Blasting uses compressed air to shoot a “media” at the building.  We use recycled glass now for most applications on the log homes we refinish because we are so impressed with the results we get.

Water blasting with a power washer is not our method of choice for several reasons:

  • Water is the enemy of logs. It is what causes rot and we don’t want to, in any way, contribute to this problem.
  • Power washers can damage the logs by destroying the grain or “fuzzing” the logs and creating long stringy rough surfaces.
  • Log homes are not completely air tight so water will make its way inside and this can cause staining on the interior logs, as well as create the potential for the development of dangerous indoor molds.

Blasting does little damage to the logs and keeps the log dry.  Power washing can cause ugly, stringy fuzz to be created.  I really don’t want to badmouth the folks that power wash but at a certain point one must look closely at the best practices here.

Here is another point to consider. If a power washer can be obtained for less than $500 and industrial-grade blasting equipment costs over $15,000, why would contractors choose blasting? The answer is that blasting simply works better and is less damaging to the logs in a number of ways.

We have been in the log home refinishing and restoration business for over 25 years.  We have removed every type of finish from log homes from the lightest semi-transparent stains to the thickest oil-based paints.

Here is a video of us blasting off finish:

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME REFINISHING:

Blasting vs. power washing
Here is a project we recently did
Why do logs rot?

Log home maintenance you can do yourself – caulking cracks in your logs

Log home maintenance issues sometimes need to be resolved by experts. That is where we come in. But there are also things that the homeowners can do to insure that their logs stay “healthy”.

Up-facing check in log

Classic example of up-facing checks needing caulking.

Logs naturally do develop some cracks or checks. As wood dries, the difference in surface tension and moisture gradients between the inner and the outer parts of the logs cause checks. This is  part of the charm of the log home.

These cracks can face up or down, depending on where they are on a log. Logs with cracks that face upward can be susceptible to rot because they allow the water to travel deep into the logs, where rot starts. The more exterior areas of logs can usually dry out after a rain because of the wind and sun, but the more interior areas can remain wet longer. When this happens, they can reach the right moisture point that allows rot fungi to grow.

Here are the three criteria we generally use when determining if it is necessary to caulk checks on log homes:

  • Face upward
  • Are more than a ¼” in width at the surface of the log
  • Are in a vulnerable place in the wall  (i.e. the bottom courses of a log wall near the ground, an area that gets a significant amount of water splashing up from the ground

If all these criteria are met then the check needs to be filled.

Proper log home maintenance is your best insurance against needing more costly repairs down the road.

Related links:

Log home maintenance
Chinking and caulking
Log rot

Log cabin repair… Summer is a busy time

Many log cabins in our area need repair.  This week we looked at log cabins in Wisconsin near Ladysmith and Hayward. We also did site visits to Eveleth and on Lake Vermillion up in Northern Minnesota.  It’s a busy time of year for us.

log cabin repair

We repaired this cabin near Spooner, Wisconsin

We will be doing log cabin repairs in the next two months in Wisconsin near Baldwin, Tomah, Hayward, Gordon, and Solon Springs. We will be also be working in  Duluth, Minnesota.

Our repair work brings us all over Minnesota and Wisconsin. Give us a call at 877-378-4403 and chances are, we are going to be in your area soon.

We do all kinds of log cabin repairs. Click here to see a map of where we work and some photos of jobs we have worked on.

Related links:

Replacing logs
Replacing crowns (log ends)
Chinking and caulking
Contact us

Chinking log homes – An important part of maintenance

The chinking and caulking in log homes should not be overlooked. Routine maintenance of your log home includes keeping an eye on sealing up the gaps between the logs.  The design of some log buildings requires chinking or caulking but for others, it becomes necessary to do this for various reasons.

chinkingBasically what we are doing when we chink or caulk is filling the gaps between the logs or between logs and windows, doors, foundations, roof lines and other areas where we want to prevent air and water from making its way into the log building or cabin.

While prevention of rot is always our primary concern, energy savings can be another big reason why people chink their log buildings. We have had customers tell us they were able to take advantage of tax credits related to energy savings based on chinking their homes.

Chinking and caulking both rely on latex polymers for adhesion.  The basic difference between caulk and chink is that chinking has fine sand particles added to it. This sand makes the appearance of the chinking dull or “flat” and in the same way that aggregate adds strength to a concrete slab – the sand adds strength to the chinking material.

Modern chinking material adheres much better than traditional caulking. Chinking can be used on lines that are from 1/2″ wide to more than 6″ wide.  If the lines we want to seal are less than 1/2″ in width, we usually recommend traditional caulking or a product called Energy Seal.  Perma-Chink is our preferred brand of chinking.

chinking behind trim

This is not what you want around your windows or doors.

Sometimes it is necessary to install foam backer rod behind the line of chinking. The foam rod insulates the line of chink as well as breaks the bond in the center of the line, allowing for more flexibility within the chinking material for when the logs naturally expand and contract.

caulking around window

This is what we have done to take care of this problem.

An often over-looked area as far as chinking goes is the transition between the windows and the backside of the trim around the windows or doors. If left un-sealed, these cavities become places where water and air can make its way into the home.

The other reason to fill these cavities is that critters (bats, bees and mice) love these areas and find it a fitting home or way to get into your house.

Chinking your log home can solve a variety of problems. We have over 30 years of experience with this technique and we can complete your project in a professional manor. Contact us or call 877-378-4403.

Related links:

Chinking and caulking
Chinking “cabin” style log homes
Finishing
Contact us

Log Home Maintenance – Proper uses for different types of Borates

Log home maintenance often includes the use of borates are a preservative for the logs. There are basically three forms of borates: liquids like PeneTreat, Bora-Care or Tim-bor; pure borate rods like Impel Rods; or mixed borate rods like Cobra Rods.

PeneTreat is a powered borate. The powder is mixed with water and applied to bare wood. It treats the wood in general for rot and also prevents infestations of wood boring insects.  Bora-Care is a highly concentrated borate where the borate is mixed with glycol to promote penetration into the wood.

We use and recommend PeneTreat where we want general protection for the wood.  It comes in the form of a powder and is typically mixed at one pound per gallon.  Bora-Care is a gel, which is also mixed with water, usually 1:1. This mixture is then applied to low, up-facing checks, lower logs that are getting wet all the time, window sills that need extra protection and crown or log ends. These borates offer good protection from rot when used in conjunction with a quality log home stain.

Borate rods or Crystalline Solid Borate Rods are either pure borates in rod form or borates mixed with copper hydroxide.

• Impel Rods are a pure borate rod in a solid form
• Cobra Rods are a mixture of borate and copper hydroxide

We generally do not  recommend the use of these rods for log home maintenance.  We have found that the drilling of holes into the logs to insert the rods promotes decay in itself and for this reason, do not recommend them.

This said, we see them used all the time.  Many times they are inserted too late in the rot process to do any good. In this situation, they do more damage by actually promoting decay rather than acting as a prevention for decay, as advertised.

In conclusion, borates in general are a good thing. Use the liquids such as PeneTreat, Bora-Care and Tim-bor and there are other brands. It’s all really the same stuff packaged in a different way. These are good ways to get borates into your logs to protect them.  Understand that borates are prevention… not repair.  Borates will not “re-solidify” your logs.  Rot is rot.  The wood will need to be replaced if it is rotten.  Maintenance of your log home depends on the wise use of borates.

Related links:

How we repair rotten wood
Contact us


 

Log cabin repair needs to be done right

leaking around chimneyLog cabin repair work takes us all around Wisconsin and Minnesota. We have two crews so we can cover more territory. Since log cabins are so prevalent in these two states, quality log cabin repair services are in great demand.

logs replaced around chimneyThis is a photo of a log cabin we worked on last month. In this case, an upper roof line on the cabin had contributed to rot around this window.  We replaced the logs and the window.  The lack of an adequate overhang, combined with lack of proper flashing, caused this rot on the cabin. Click here to see a PDF on “How to flash a brick or stone chimney”.

We have replaced many logs in many cabins over the years.  It is important to remember that having an expert do your log cabin repairs is better insurance that the job will be done right – the first time!

Related links:

Log home repair
Rot on the bottom of posts
Improperly flashed roof often causes rot

Log home repair can be a major undertaking… so keep up with doing the routine maintenance and avoid costly repairs.

Log home repair in even newer log homes is more and more common. It is very important to keep up with the maintenance of your log home so that you do not need to do expensive repairs down the road.

rotten crowns before repairIn this situation, there were large checks (cracks) in the ends of the logs. Water got in and rot followed. Checks on the up-facing side of a log can be particularly problematic. Had the checks been caulked when they first got big enough (wider than ¼”), this customer may have been able to avoid needing log home repair vs. maintenance.

rotten crowns after repairOne thing we do quite a bit of in these situations is replacing the crowns. Click here to learn more about replacing crowns.

Below are more links about ways you can avoid repairs on your log home by staying up to date on the routine maintenance.

Give your log home a checkup
Chinking and caulking
Why do logs rot?

If you are in need of log repairs check out these links:

Finishing log homes
Sand, cob, or glass blasting
Cleaning the exterior logs

Log Home Refinishing – Keeping your log home looking great!

darkened logsLog home refinishing, on a regular basis, is the most important ongoing maintenance that a log home owner does. Whether you do it yourself or have a professional do the work, keeping up with the refinishing of your log home is the key factor in keeping your logs in good condition.  Most semi-transparent stains need to be recoated about every 3-5 years, depending on the specifics of your site and the design of your home.
Here are some common questions asked about refinishing log homes:

Pealing finishHow do I know when it is time for routine log home refinishing?  If the stain is looking chalky, the logs are looking dry or the stain is beginning to peal, you need to investigate having your logs refinished. You can also spray an area using a household spray bottle and see if the water beads up. If it does not bead water  – you need to refinish your logs.  The upward facing parts of the logs are most apt to breakdown, largely due to the UV from the sun breaking down the finish.

Can only the sides that are fading be stained? Yes you can as long as you do the correct preparation of cleaning the logs. The West and South sides of a log home tend to fade first. In some cases, we do recommend re-staining these areas in-between re-coats on the other sides of the house. The only draw back to this approach is that the newly finished sides do appear slightly “cleaner” for a time because of the fresh coat of stain that was applied in contrast to the sides that were not refinished.

Can I refinish my log home myself? Yes. Re-staining is not a complicated process.  We recommend cleaning your logs with a mixture of TSP (tri-sodium phosphate), a stiff brush and water.  A garden hose is good enough to thoroughly rinse off the TSP.  We do NOT recommend the use of power washers.  If there are small areas where the stain is pealing, you need to prep these areas to get rid of this pealing stain.  Sanding with an orbital sander is usually the most efficient way to do this.

After the logs have a chance to dry, the stain is applied using either an airless sprayer or a brush.  Either way it is applied, it needs to be “back brushed” very well.  Back brushing is going over each newly stained area with a brush working in the stain to get it to soak further into the logs.

Pealing finishHow do I know if my logs need blasting? If your stain is pealing over large areas of the logs, then you may want to consider having the logs blasted to prepare them for staining.  This process is not recommended for homeowners to do themselves because of the heavy equipment that is necessary and the special training needed to remove stain by this process. Log home refinishing – on a timely basis – is your assurance that your investment is protected.

Here are some relevant links to our website:

Finishing your log home
Blasting to remove old finish
Why NOT to use a power washer
Matching the color of new stain to older stain
Darkening, pealing finish

Holes in knots in logs

Question: There are holes just in the knots of our log home. Are these from a wood boring insect or are these commonplace in the knots with aging?

Telltale signs of wood boring insects.Answer: It’s hard to say for sure if the holes in your logs are from boring insects but it sounds like they are. Small (or big) holes in your logs are a sign that something is wrong. I would suggest that you tap around the logs near these holes and see if the they sound hollow. If they do, then I would suggest that you have your logs inspected for rot.

At the very least – I recommend injecting these holes with a mixture of borates. The one we recommend for homeowners is called Bora-Care and it is available at Do It Yourself Pest Control.  I hope this helps.

Other helpful links to our site:

We have a brief video showing the application of the borate treatment.

Leaking around windows – what’s the solution?

We regularly get inquiries about problems people have with their log home or cabin. We’ll post some of those questions on our blog in order to reach more people with solutions to problems.

Window where it has been leaking

Often these leaks cause discoloration of the wood on the interior.

Question: I have a problem with leaking around one of my windows. I have caulked all around it to prevent leading but nothing I have done has solved the problem. What am I missing?

Answer: Sometimes chinking or caulking just around the window is not enough to keep moisture out.  The leak could be coming from above the window and getting behind the trim or into the space between the outer caulking and the inside of the logs.

One solution we have found is to take off the exterior trim and in these cases, we caulk directly against the window jambs. If the leaking seems to be coming in at the top of the window, it is likely that the leak is originating in the logs above the unit.

With extreme situations, all the trim needs to be removed and the entire wall chinked or caulked in combination with flashing above the header trim of the window. Click here for more information about chinking and caulking.