Posts Tagged ‘log home repair’

Log home problems in “middle-aged” log homes

The following is an article written by Matt Edmunds. It first appeared in the magazine “Log Home Living” in their June 2012 issue.

Seal of excellence

We have restored log homes in the upper Midwest for over thirty years.  Our business started out of necessity back in 1978 when my father (former owner of Edmunds & Company) was looking to restore our family cabin in Northwestern Wisconsin.  Upon not finding anyone to do the work locally – he did the work himself.

After a decade or so of working on older places built between the 1880’s and 1950’s we started to see more “newer” homes that needed restoration. In the last 20 years, our work on log homes has shifted from almost exclusively working on homes built before 1950 to almost 60% of the homes we work on being built after 1950.

log home in WisconsinWhile the antique log home has its charm and many hold family memories and histories, this generation of log homes is not the focus of this article. Homes built since 1975 have their unique problems and I will go over some of these problems in detail to give the reader a road map for keeping them sound and livable for the next 40 years.  Many of these homes are used as year-round residences. This means that we want to be especially mindful about the necessity of maintaining them so that their owners may enjoy these beautiful structures for generations to come.

log ends are too long

This is a design flaw. The crowns stick out beyond the drip line, susceptible to rot.

Let me say that our fast-paced world has certainly affected the way log homes get built.  The statement that they “don’t build them like they used to” certainly holds true for many of these homes. Many were built with quickness in mind and constructed with cheap materials. If I could give one piece of advice going forward it is “do it right the first time”… it’s much easier than going back and fixing it later.  Investments in gutters and proper flashing, for example, can save thousands of dollars in repairs down the road.

Click here to view a PDF of  15 of the most common problems we see with middle-aged log homes and what can be done to remedy these issues.

If  you prefer to scroll down, here is the rest of the article.  (more…)

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Classic Log Buildings – WPA and CCC buildings of the 1930′s

Here in Minnesota and Wisconsin, the discussion of restoration and repair of log structures would not be complete without talking about the log homes and buildings built during the era of the great depression. The WPA (Works Progress Administration) and the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) had many far-reaching effects on our landscape that we can still see today.

Bemidji State Park log building

An example of this style of construction -- a picnic shelter at the Bemidji State Park, MN

Roosevelt’s New Deal is responsible for producing some of the most interesting and well-crafted log structures in this country. Many state parks in Minnesota and Wisconsin had their beginnings because of the public investments of the 1930′s.

When these parks were created, the states hired the unemployed to build mostly log structures with the idea of making buildings that could stand the test of time. The St. Croix State Park  in Hinckley, MN was one of the first state parks and the buildings there were later used as models to build parks in other states.

ely boy scouts log building

Good example of log work with stone foundation.

These log buildings were meant to last, unlike many of the settlers’ cabins or logging camp structures of earlier times. The state hired lead builders (many coming from Scandinavia and Germany), who had skilled crews of laborers to build the log buildings in the new parks. Most were built in what we today call a “round log scribe A/V” style of log construction. Many also incorporated stone quarried locally into the structures, creating some quite impressive stonework that is still around today. (more…)

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Posted in General, Historic log buildings, Log Home Repair, Log Home Restoration |
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Log Home Construction Finnish-style by Blaise Sopiwnik

Here in Wisconsin and Minnesota, Finnish settlers have set the bar high for hewn log construction.  Finns are the ones who created the log cabin that we all envision. In this post I will discuss Finnish log homes, as well as how and why they were constructed. I will also give some examples of projects done on these original-style log homes illustrating some aspects of maintenance and repair of these structures. First I want to give you a description of what a hewn Finnish-style log home is.

Finnish dovetail hewn log structures are some of the most solid log buildings ever constructed. These buildings were all built with hand tools such as cross cut saws, broad-axes, mallets and different types of chisels. These were structures of necessity. Settlers needed shelter, often quickly, and they possessed the knowledge and the tools to build it. Logs were plentiful.

Finnish-style log home

The first consideration of any builder is its actual location and what species of mature trees could be harvested near by. The quality of mature trees was a main deciding factor in where to build. Trees were harvested on site in most cases. The desired species of trees included White Pine, Hemlock, Eastern White Cedar, and Oak.

After felling and limbing the trees, the builder would immediately set out to hew (flatten the log) and shape the logs to start drying out the timber. This included cross cutting the logs to a certain depth and then broad axing the extra material away from the log creating a top flat and a bottom flat with rounded edges on the sides. This process would expose heartwood, which is the hardest, most rot-resistant part of the tree. This also opened up the log to air dry the center, thus reducing the possibility for extreme shrinkage later in the building’s life.  Next it was time to lay out the corner dovetail joints. (more…)

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Posted in Common Problems, Log Home Restoration, Refinishing Log Homes |
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Log home repair – how to check for rot

Log home repair starts with knowing when you actually NEED repair. Here are some tips for discovering if you have rot in your logs that needs attention.

finish buildup

Notice the grayed log compared to the surrounding logs. Rot!

Tapping on the logs is a simple and effective method of discovery. It is not 100% accurate but it is definitely worth doing. Use a hammer and tap on logs that you suspect may have some rot. Are they darker or grayed compared to surrounding logs? Are there lots of checks or cracks in the log that make it look suspicious? Are there small holes in the logs, which may be an indicator of boring insects (a sign of carpenter ants or powderpost beetles. Find out more…)

problems with insectsIf the sound you hear when tapping these suspect areas sounds different than when you tap on logs that look “healthy”, it may be an indicator that there is rot. To really do a thorough check by tapping, it will require a ladder to get to higher areas. If this is not possible for you to do yourself, it is worth getting someone who is comfortable with heights to get up there and do it for you. Rot can take hold underneath windows and underneath decks so be sure to inspect these areas regularly. (more…)

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Logs homes made with “cabin logs”

Notice the flat surface on the up-side of the log.

Some of the worst log rot we have seen over the years is on homes made from “cabin logs”. These are round logs that are flattened on the top and bottom to allow them to be stacked easily on top of one another. While this is one of the fastest and least costly ways to build a log home, it can also be a recipe for decay down the road.

After repairing rotten logs in a home with cabin logs we often recommend chinking the home to prevent rot in the future.

What happens is that when it rains, the water running down the wall is allowed to sit on these “shelves” that are created by a smaller diameter log sitting on top of a larger one. Over time rot can occur in the log and eventually this log will need to be replaced. After repairing rotten logs in a home with cabin logs we often recommend chinking the home to prevent rot in the future.

Click here to see an example of a project where we repaired rotten “cabin logs” and chinked the entire home.

Other relevant links:

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Log homes and wood boring insects

Here is a related question from our previous posting.

Question: I need to get wood-boring beetles and carpenter bees stopped. No serious structural damage yet but the insect problem needs to be addressed. I am the original owner of the home. It was built in 1985 out of southern yellow pine. It was a kit supplied by Real Log Homes out of North Carolina. It was last cob-blasted, borated and sealed in 2004. Borate applied at that time did not stop insects. Need help to get insect damage stopped and house resealed.

Notice the honey combing that the ants do as they "excavate the rot". Until you get rid of the rot, you can't control the population of boring insects.

Answer: What we know about carpenter bees and powder post beetles is that they feed on decaying wood. Therefore, they often are a sign that the logs are retaining moisture and that there is some rot. Borate treatment is not a guarantee against these insects. It isn’t a pesticide but more of a treatment for the logs to raise the PH level of the wood to the point where the rot organism is impeded, and subsequently the bugs are less able to attack it. Click here for more information about insects in log homes. (more…)

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Posted in Insects and Log Homes/Cabins, Questions and Answers |
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Holes in knots in logs

Question: There are holes just in the knots of our log home. Are these from a wood boring insect or are these commonplace in the knots with aging?

Telltale signs of wood boring insects.Answer: It’s hard to say for sure if the holes in your logs are from boring insects but it sounds like they are. Small (or big) holes in your logs are a sign that something is wrong. I would suggest that you tap around the logs near these holes and see if the they sound hollow. If they do, then I would suggest that you have your logs inspected for rot.

At the very least – I recommend injecting these holes with a mixture of borates. The one we recommend for homeowners is called Bora-Care and it is available at Do It Yourself Pest Control.  I hope this helps.

Other helpful links to our site:

We have a brief video showing the application of the borate treatment.

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Covering up rotten logs – good or bad idea?

Question: I have a home where the floor beams rotted. I ground off as much of the rot as I could and then I treated them heavily with a borate solution. Next, I sprayed foam insulation over them to seal them off. Do I need to be concerned that they will continue to rot despite my efforts?

Answer: Rot is all about moisture. Sometimes when it comes to the practicalities of doing repairs like yours, one has to leave some rot.  The most important thing to its longevity is to keep that area as dry as possible.  So… it sounds like you are on the right track.  The only thing you might find is that some of the rotted areas could attract carpenter ants and/or powder post beetles.  The borate treatment you used might help this but if the wood boring insects get really annoying, then you need to have an exterminator come in and treat these areas as well.  Good luck.

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Log Homes with Cantilevered Decks

Cantilevered log decks are a potential area for problems with rotten logs. We run into this type of deck a number of times each year. A cantilever deck is a deck that is supported by a log that sticks through a wall (on the outside) and supports a deck. These decks are usually located on the second floor of a log home and most times are small in size.

The problem is that most of the time, they are constructed with pine logs that are designed or allowed to stick right out beyond the roof line where they are exposed to the weather. They take on so much moisture that they become susceptible to rot.   When these logs begin to rot, it often happens very fast.

This one was built right. Notice the drip edging around the perimeter. These logs underneath see very little water. Built to last.

In our assessment, there are basically three options for the home owner:

1) The deck can be removed. This is an option but leaves you with the problem of what to do with a “door to nowhere”

2) The length of the extending logs can be shortened enough to get them inside the drip line. This means cutting them back typically between 12″ and 24″, which eliminates the rotted portion of log. Usually with this option, the railings can be modified and used again.

3) Convert the deck into a roof. To do this, we take off the railings and decking, make a new platform and create a flat roof.

Here are some related links that may be of interest:

Replacing rotten logs
Replacing perlins
Borate as a preservative

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Log home repair and WATER – what’s the connection?

In the simplest of terms – logs rot because of WATER! It seems like a simple concept but the solution to keep logs from getting too much moisture in them is anything but simple.

We spend a good deal of our time helping customers remedy problems they are having with rot that is directly caused by the fact that some of their logs have been allowed to stay too wet over time.

So what’s the big deal with too much moisture in the logs? In a word – ROT! The rot organism needs four ingredients to begin degrading wood.

It needs:

  1. Moisture content between 20% and 30% in the wood’s fiber. While this percentage varies from species to species, most wood will start to deteriorate at around 20% moisture.
  2. Temperatures between 60º and 90º. This is why most of the active rotting occurs during our hot, humid summers.
  3. Oxygen – rot needs it to get going. This is why wood that is underwater does not rot. There is not enough ‘free oxygen’ for the process to take place.
  4. A food source. This is what the rot organism eats – in this case the wood in your house.

Rot needs all these things to get established. If we can eliminate one of these ‘ingredients’ we can stop the rot process, which is easier said than done.

It is impossible to change the temperatures away from being 60-90° in the summer. As living organisms ourselves, we need oxygen too, just like rot. Rot eating wood is one of the laws of nature, so the only factor that we can control is the moisture content, i.e. WATER! (more…)

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