Posts Tagged ‘log home refinishing’

Log home refinishing

Well, the log home refinishing and stain season has definitely come to an end. If you got your project done this summer, you can rest assured that your log home is protected. If your project got put off to next year, that’s OK too.

blasting

Don't do the blasting if you can't get the stain on it soon after.

It’s never too early to start thinking about the process of protecting your logs from the elements. There are always several steps in this process. Preparation is by far the most important and difficult to get right. Getting the surface of your logs ready to accept a stain may involve blasting off old, deteriorated finish, cleaning the logs with oxygen bleach or simply washing them with a garden hose. It all depends on the condition of your logs.

When the logs are “raw” after blasting, we recommend applying a  borate treatment to protect the logs against future rot. The final step in log home refinishing is applying a quality log home stain to the logs to protect them from the elements, including UV protection. Read on to learn more about different choices in stains, their advantages and disadvantages.

darkened stain

Darkened stain - before blasting

Log home stains are continually evolving and improving. Some stains that “in there day” were considered to be top-of-line have not stood the test of time. Certainly the improvements made are steps in the right direction. That said, I wish I could say that there is a “bullet-proof stain” as far as log home stains go but in our experience – there isn’t.

So what we look for are the good stains vs. the ones to stay away from. Our 30+ years of experience in the log home restoration business have resulted in a body of knowledge about refinishing and in particular – what type of stain to recommend to our customers.

new stain applied

After blasting and new stain applied

Once the all-important preparation is done, we recommend an application of what is generically called a “stain finish”. These are essentially a combination of three ingredients: UV blockers, a waterproofing sealant and finely ground pigments. From this combination we get a finish that protects the logs from the sun, the rain and keeps them looking good.

Pigments – People often ask me why the stains need pigment? The answer is that the pigments are also part of what constitutes the UV protection. They act somewhat like sunglasses for your building, protecting the waterproofing from breaking down in UV light. This need for pigment is evidenced by the fact that “clear” stains  (even from the  known “good” stain companies) don’t usually carry ANY warrantee.

UV protection – Simply put – UV protection protects the logs by blocking the sunlight’s ability to break down the waterproofing capability of the finish itself.  The UV blocker and the pigment are basically in service to this waterproofing sealant.

Waterproofing – The polymers in the stain’s base make it water repellant. The sealants ability to are protect the logs from water is the number one way to stave off rot. The stain’s water repellency is susceptible to breakdown by UV light and that is why pigments and UV protection (mentioned above) in combination with waterproofing create the “trifecta” of protection for your log home

Log home refinishing is not about just for the aesthetics of how your log home looks. It is first and foremost your best “insurance” against problems with rot down the road.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME REPAIR
Preparation done right
Advantages of borate preservative
A featured project of blasting and finishing

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Log home refinishing – Best practices for removing old finish

In the log home refinishing business, we get asked many times each year about the advantages of blasting logs with a “dry” vs. “wet” process to remove old finish.

blasting off finishWe have found that in most cases, the blasting process or “dry” process (be it corn cob, crushed glass or sand) is the right process for the logs. Blasting uses compressed air to shoot a “media” at the building.  We use recycled glass now for most applications on the log homes we refinish because we are so impressed with the results we get.

Water blasting with a power washer is not our method of choice for several reasons:

  • Water is the enemy of logs. It is what causes rot and we don’t want to, in any way, contribute to this problem.
  • Power washers can damage the logs by destroying the grain or “fuzzing” the logs and creating long stringy rough surfaces.
  • Log homes are not completely air tight so water will make its way inside and this can cause staining on the interior logs, as well as create the potential for the development of dangerous indoor molds.

Blasting does little damage to the logs and keeps the log dry.  Power washing can cause ugly, stringy fuzz to be created.  I really don’t want to badmouth the folks that power wash but at a certain point one must look closely at the best practices here.

Here is another point to consider. If a power washer can be obtained for less than $500 and industrial-grade blasting equipment costs over $15,000, why would contractors choose blasting? The answer is that blasting simply works better and is less damaging to the logs in a number of ways.

We have been in the log home refinishing and restoration business for over 25 years.  We have removed every type of finish from log homes from the lightest semi-transparent stains to the thickest oil-based paints.

Here is a video of us blasting off finish:

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME REFINISHING:

Blasting vs. power washing
Here is a project we recently did
Why do logs rot?

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Log home refinishing: How to choose a stain – oil based vs. next generation latex stains

Log home refinishing has changed over the years because of the changes in the products used. We get asked at least a few times a month about the advantages of oil based vs. latex based stains on log homes. This seems to be the “age old debate” in the log home community.  In brief, we recommend the latex based stains when finishing your log home and here is why.

About ten years ago, the EPA made a set of rules that are effectively going to make oil stain a thing of the past. The rules have been phased in. The companies that make log home stain have been putting all their research and development efforts into the “next generation” latex stains. These are stains that contain latex based pigments.

build up of stain

Notice the contrast between the darkened logs and the crowns that had already been blasted to remove the built up finish.

The oil based stains are still around mainly because they continue to sell and many people still swear by them. The reality is that the stain companies will have to change them significantly to comply with current environmental law. Another drawback of the oil-based stains is that some oil stains have a problem with “buildup”. These film-building stains can build up to the point that they can cause problems with rotting logs.

The new latex stains are lasting longer and longer and they lack the buildup problems that oils have. These are two reasons why the scales have tipped for us to the side of the latex based stains. There is still no magic bullet for semi-transparent stains.  The reality is that you need to keep up with a re-coat schedule on your house.  It is our opinion that when it comes to log home refinishing… we recommend using latex stains.

Related links:

More on film building stains
Cob, sand or glass blasting
Replacing rotten logs
Selecting a finish

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Posted in Blasting Log Homes, Log Home Maintenance, Refinishing Log Homes |
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Log Home Refinishing – Keeping your log home looking great!

darkened logsLog home refinishing, on a regular basis, is the most important ongoing maintenance that a log home owner does. Whether you do it yourself or have a professional do the work, keeping up with the refinishing of your log home is the key factor in keeping your logs in good condition.  Most semi-transparent stains need to be recoated about every 3-5 years, depending on the specifics of your site and the design of your home.
Here are some common questions asked about refinishing log homes:

Pealing finishHow do I know when it is time for routine log home refinishing?  If the stain is looking chalky, the logs are looking dry or the stain is beginning to peal, you need to investigate having your logs refinished. You can also spray an area using a household spray bottle and see if the water beads up. If it does not bead water  – you need to refinish your logs.  The upward facing parts of the logs are most apt to breakdown, largely due to the UV from the sun breaking down the finish.

Can only the sides that are fading be stained? Yes you can as long as you do the correct preparation of cleaning the logs. The West and South sides of a log home tend to fade first. In some cases, we do recommend re-staining these areas in-between re-coats on the other sides of the house. The only draw back to this approach is that the newly finished sides do appear slightly “cleaner” for a time because of the fresh coat of stain that was applied in contrast to the sides that were not refinished.

Can I refinish my log home myself? Yes. Re-staining is not a complicated process.  We recommend cleaning your logs with a mixture of TSP (tri-sodium phosphate), a stiff brush and water.  A garden hose is good enough to thoroughly rinse off the TSP.  We do NOT recommend the use of power washers.  If there are small areas where the stain is pealing, you need to prep these areas to get rid of this pealing stain.  Sanding with an orbital sander is usually the most efficient way to do this.

After the logs have a chance to dry, the stain is applied using either an airless sprayer or a brush.  Either way it is applied, it needs to be “back brushed” very well.  Back brushing is going over each newly stained area with a brush working in the stain to get it to soak further into the logs.

Pealing finishHow do I know if my logs need blasting? If your stain is pealing over large areas of the logs, then you may want to consider having the logs blasted to prepare them for staining.  This process is not recommended for homeowners to do themselves because of the heavy equipment that is necessary and the special training needed to remove stain by this process. Log home refinishing – on a timely basis – is your assurance that your investment is protected.

Here are some relevant links to our website:

Finishing your log home
Blasting to remove old finish
Why NOT to use a power washer
Matching the color of new stain to older stain
Darkening, pealing finish

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Log Home Maintenance

The Advantages of Treating with Borates
by Matt Edmunds
Edmunds & Company Log Home Restorations,  LLC

Boron-based treatments are now an established part of log home maintenance. In the past,  the chemical Penta was used as a wood preservative from the 1950′s up until the 1980′s. Penta (pentachlorphenal and creosote) was outlawed in the 1980′s for public use because of its toxicity.  Many log homes here in the Midwest have had this chemical applied to the exterior over the years.  Now, many of these same log homes are turning black and the preservative effect of the chemical is wearing out.  Penta wood treatment tended to preserve the outer 1/2″ of the wood and if it did develop rot, the rot would take hold deeper into the log where the Penta had not penetrated.

Here is an example of a building that had Penta applied to it. Notice all the black discoloration on many of the logs.

Before blasting

Unfortunately, on most log homes, Penta is no longer an effective preservative because it leaves the logs vulnerable to the elements.  Modern exterior stains act in a different way to control rot than Penta did.  While the chemical reactions in the Penta prevented the rot from taking hold, today’s modern stains actually control moisture, which ultimately prevents decay.

Surface preparation is very important in order to control the surface moisture on the logs. On log homes that have been treated with a Penta preservative, it is necessary to remove the old preservative first. This prepares the outer surface of the logs to “accept” a new application of stain, which will better protect the logs from the elements.  In cases like these, we recommend sand, glass or cob blasting to remove the old finish.  This process takes off a layer of the wood and cleans up the logs, making them ready for staining. Click here for more information on blasting.

To learn more about why logs rot, click here.

After the building is protected with borates and stain

After blasting and before staining, we apply a preservative that contains borates – a natural preservative as opposed to Penta. The borate treatment raises the PH level in the logs to the point where they need a few higher percentage points of moisture before rot can get started.  The final step in the process is the application of a high quality exterior stain.  There are many options to choose from but protection, UV inhibitors, and breathability are all important factors to look for when selecting a stain.

Visit us at www.restorelogs.com for more info on our services
or email us and we will contact you : info@restorelogs.com.

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“Film-forming finishes” are not a good choice for log homes

Repair and restoration of log homes – In our 30 years in the log home restoration and repair business, we have seen many disastrous problems with rot in log homes. Some of the most tragic problems we have seen have been the result of having what I refer to as a “film-forming finish” on the logs.

up-facing cracks can lead to rot

Darkening logs is indicative of failing "film forming finish". This one had up-facing checks that caused some of the rot issues, as well.

When I say tragic I mean we have seen extensive rot in homes that are 10 years old or less. While the rotted logs cannot be blamed solely on these “film-forming finishes”, it is certainly a factor that adds significantly to their decay.

Let me take a minute to explain what I mean by “film-forming finishes” and what we expect from finishes in general and then get into how they can cause problems on log homes and cabins. (more…)

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