Posts Tagged ‘failing finish on log cabins/homes’

Log home refinishing

Well, the log home refinishing and stain season has definitely come to an end. If you got your project done this summer, you can rest assured that your log home is protected. If your project got put off to next year, that’s OK too.

blasting

Don't do the blasting if you can't get the stain on it soon after.

It’s never too early to start thinking about the process of protecting your logs from the elements. There are always several steps in this process. Preparation is by far the most important and difficult to get right. Getting the surface of your logs ready to accept a stain may involve blasting off old, deteriorated finish, cleaning the logs with oxygen bleach or simply washing them with a garden hose. It all depends on the condition of your logs.

When the logs are “raw” after blasting, we recommend applying a  borate treatment to protect the logs against future rot. The final step in log home refinishing is applying a quality log home stain to the logs to protect them from the elements, including UV protection. Read on to learn more about different choices in stains, their advantages and disadvantages.

darkened stain

Darkened stain - before blasting

Log home stains are continually evolving and improving. Some stains that “in there day” were considered to be top-of-line have not stood the test of time. Certainly the improvements made are steps in the right direction. That said, I wish I could say that there is a “bullet-proof stain” as far as log home stains go but in our experience – there isn’t.

So what we look for are the good stains vs. the ones to stay away from. Our 30+ years of experience in the log home restoration business have resulted in a body of knowledge about refinishing and in particular – what type of stain to recommend to our customers.

new stain applied

After blasting and new stain applied

Once the all-important preparation is done, we recommend an application of what is generically called a “stain finish”. These are essentially a combination of three ingredients: UV blockers, a waterproofing sealant and finely ground pigments. From this combination we get a finish that protects the logs from the sun, the rain and keeps them looking good.

Pigments – People often ask me why the stains need pigment? The answer is that the pigments are also part of what constitutes the UV protection. They act somewhat like sunglasses for your building, protecting the waterproofing from breaking down in UV light. This need for pigment is evidenced by the fact that “clear” stains  (even from the  known “good” stain companies) don’t usually carry ANY warrantee.

UV protection – Simply put – UV protection protects the logs by blocking the sunlight’s ability to break down the waterproofing capability of the finish itself.  The UV blocker and the pigment are basically in service to this waterproofing sealant.

Waterproofing – The polymers in the stain’s base make it water repellant. The sealants ability to are protect the logs from water is the number one way to stave off rot. The stain’s water repellency is susceptible to breakdown by UV light and that is why pigments and UV protection (mentioned above) in combination with waterproofing create the “trifecta” of protection for your log home

Log home refinishing is not about just for the aesthetics of how your log home looks. It is first and foremost your best “insurance” against problems with rot down the road.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME REPAIR
Preparation done right
Advantages of borate preservative
A featured project of blasting and finishing

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Log Home Maintenance – Top 10 ways to protect your log home and your investment

Log home maintenance, done on a routine basis, is your best homeowners insurance against costly repairs. Check this out:

darkened logs

Time for new stain.

1. Keep the finish on the exterior logs in good shape. This means checking it every year on every side of your house to make sure when you wet the logs, water will still bead up and the finish is not fading or graying.

2. Make sure the caulking or chinking between your logs is in good shape… no cracks or splits in it.

3. Make sure the decks on the home are flashed correctly and are not allowing moisture to be held up against the logs.

4. Caulk up-facing checks in your logs if they are ¼” wider or more or are in vulnerable places on your home, i.e. just above a deck surface or on a high gable wall.

Check for leaks in gutters

5. Keep gutters on your home functioning properly, i.e. not full of leaves or debris and not leaking. This will also help to keep the logs dry. Splash back from decks is the #1 cause of log rot.

6. Clean the exterior logs on your building once a year. Dust and pollen promote the start of decay.

chairs against the logs

Look familiar? Don't do this to your log home.

7. Keep deck furniture, grills, wood stacks, and other items away from the logs around the home. They can hold moisture against the logs, which can cause rot.

8. Make sure every log on the home is inside the “drip line” of the roof. In other words, makes sure water does not drip off the roof onto the logs. Logs exposed completely to the weather WILL rot… it  is only a matter of time. Consider installing gutters where water comes off of the roof and lands on a deck. Again, splash back from decks is the #1 cause of log rot.

9. Flashing around chimneys should be inspected every year for signs of leaking. This is a place where rot can take over very quickly.

10. Keep records of what has been done to your logs. This will help when  it comes time to refinish or when trying to explore causes of problems with the logs down the road. Click here for a checklist of things to look out for.

log cabinThese are the most important things you can do for good log home maintenance and to keep your log home in good shape. Being an astute log homeowner is very important to protecting your investment.

Seeing little things that need attention day-to-day or year-to-year will be the difference between minor fixes and major repairs.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME MAINTENANCE

Maintenance you can do yourself
How to check for rot
Log home common problems

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Log home maintenance tips for new homes – Cleaning exterior logs with bleach

Log home maintenance includes all sorts of aspects for insuring that your log home stays “healthy”.  It is important to start out the life of a log home the right way.  In the course of working with new log homeowners on getting their log homes refinished and stained, I have run into some consistent confusion when it comes to the use of chlorine bleach and preserving log homes.

Before finishing new log homes for the first time, some builders and homeowners are using a highly concentrated mix of chlorine bleach and water (more than 8oz. of bleach per gallon). This solution is used to remove discoloration or molds left from the time that the building was under construction or from when the logs sat out in the elements. The problem with this method is that it can leave a residue and impregnate the logs with bleach and moisture, especially if a power washer is used. If this residue is left and it is not rinsed completely away, the results can be a failing finish in less than a year.

blasting log homeMost of finish companies do not want this highly concentrated chlorine bleach mixture applied to the logs prior to the application of their stains. In my opinion, one should first should try dry methods of cleaning the logs such as corn or glass blasting and if that doesn’t take care of the discoloration, then try oxygen bleach. Finally as a last resort – chlorine bleaching may be used.

Note: Applying a neutralizer or oxygen bleach after chlorine bleach before staining can be an effective way to get rid of residue and help ensure that no interactions occur.  With any of the “wet” methods of cleaning logs, a moisture meter needs to be used to make sure that the moisture content is at or below the recommended levels for the finish being applied.

RELATED LINKS AND MORE TIPS ON LOG HOME MAINTENANCE:

Log Home Maintenance

Dry Method Blasting

Oxygen Bleaching

Problems with Powerwashing

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Refinishing Log Home — Full service or à la carte… you choose.

We are refinishing a log home near Danbury, Wisconsin this week. Blasting is one of the steps to refinishing and we blast about 40 homes a year.

Sometimes we come in and do everything, which includes blasting, treating the logs with a borate solution, chinking, filling checks, doing log replacement and staining. This is what we call “whole house” jobs or full service.

refinishing log home

You can see a bit of the before and after blasting.

On this home, after we did the blasting, we applied a borate treatment, chinked around the windows and doors and finally, we re-stained the logs and trim. Basically a full service job.

On other jobs, we may come in and do only rotten log replacement or only do the blasting and borate treatment.

For customers who are more inclined to do some of there own maintenance themselves, this can be a good option. In these cases, we work with the owner to help him/her choose the right stain.  We can even connect them with suppliers of the stains who can drop ship right to their door. Click here to learn more about choosing the right stain.

Whether it is a full service/whole house project or an à la carte project, we can help with log home refinishing.  We work with our clients to determine how they are most comfortable getting the job done and then… we get it done right.

Check out our blasting video to get an idea of how it is done.

Related links:

Click here if you are interested in getting a estimate for blasting.

Blasting vs. power washing

Matching the color of new stain  to old stain

Contact us

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Log Home Refinishing – Log rot resulting from film-forming finishes

Log home refinishing is more than just applying another coat of stain. Sometimes it’s necessary to remove the existing finish completely, getting back to the bare wood, and then apply new stain. When a log home is finished with a quality log home stain and that stain is maintained properly, rot can be avoided.

up-facing cracks can lead to rot

Darkening logs is indictitive of failing "film-forming finish". This one had up-facing checks that caused some of the rot issues, as well.

In our 30+ years in the log home restoration business, we have seen many disastrous problems with rot in log homes that were related to the finish on the logs. Some of the most tragic problems we have seen have been the result of having what I refer to as a “film-forming finish” on the logs.

It is a widely accepted rule in the log home industry that we expect finishes on log homes to breathe. Logs naturally have a large ability to soak up moisture and so any finish that is applied to them needs to be breathable to allow the logs to dry out when they get wet. Film forming finishes are defined by the fact that they sit on the surface of the log and after the initial application don’t generally soak into the wood at all. Instead, they form a film on the surface of the logs.

When the wood gets wet (and stays wet), it causes problems. The problem with these film-forming finishes is that they do not allow the wood to breathe enough and this in turn can lead to some serious rot problems. Film-forming finishes include the Sikkens Cetol system and at least one of the Behr “premium” stains.

serious rot

This is some serious rot.

We have found that most times the problem begins after the second application of this type of “stain”. It may be that the buildup does not become problematic until that second coat is applied. Blackening of the areas in question is the first sign that there is a problem with moisture. Once the blackening starts (see photo), it becomes necessary for log home refinishing services: blasting and re-staining.

In conclusion, it is my professional opinion that there is no place for this type of finish when it comes to log home refinishing. We see too many log homes with these finishes on them and the problems are consistent. Stay away from “film-forming finishes”.

Here are some links to our site that have lots more information for you to check out:

Why Do Logs Rot?
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Replacing logs

view video

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Log home refinishing: How to choose a stain – oil based vs. next generation latex stains

Log home refinishing has changed over the years because of the changes in the products used. We get asked at least a few times a month about the advantages of oil based vs. latex based stains on log homes. This seems to be the “age old debate” in the log home community.  In brief, we recommend the latex based stains when finishing your log home and here is why.

About ten years ago, the EPA made a set of rules that are effectively going to make oil stain a thing of the past. The rules have been phased in. The companies that make log home stain have been putting all their research and development efforts into the “next generation” latex stains. These are stains that contain latex based pigments.

build up of stain

Notice the contrast between the darkened logs and the crowns that had already been blasted to remove the built up finish.

The oil based stains are still around mainly because they continue to sell and many people still swear by them. The reality is that the stain companies will have to change them significantly to comply with current environmental law. Another drawback of the oil-based stains is that some oil stains have a problem with “buildup”. These film-building stains can build up to the point that they can cause problems with rotting logs.

The new latex stains are lasting longer and longer and they lack the buildup problems that oils have. These are two reasons why the scales have tipped for us to the side of the latex based stains. There is still no magic bullet for semi-transparent stains.  The reality is that you need to keep up with a re-coat schedule on your house.  It is our opinion that when it comes to log home refinishing… we recommend using latex stains.

Related links:

More on film building stains
Cob, sand or glass blasting
Replacing rotten logs
Selecting a finish

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Log Home Refinishing – Keeping your log home looking great!

darkened logsLog home refinishing, on a regular basis, is the most important ongoing maintenance that a log home owner does. Whether you do it yourself or have a professional do the work, keeping up with the refinishing of your log home is the key factor in keeping your logs in good condition.  Most semi-transparent stains need to be recoated about every 3-5 years, depending on the specifics of your site and the design of your home.
Here are some common questions asked about refinishing log homes:

Pealing finishHow do I know when it is time for routine log home refinishing?  If the stain is looking chalky, the logs are looking dry or the stain is beginning to peal, you need to investigate having your logs refinished. You can also spray an area using a household spray bottle and see if the water beads up. If it does not bead water  – you need to refinish your logs.  The upward facing parts of the logs are most apt to breakdown, largely due to the UV from the sun breaking down the finish.

Can only the sides that are fading be stained? Yes you can as long as you do the correct preparation of cleaning the logs. The West and South sides of a log home tend to fade first. In some cases, we do recommend re-staining these areas in-between re-coats on the other sides of the house. The only draw back to this approach is that the newly finished sides do appear slightly “cleaner” for a time because of the fresh coat of stain that was applied in contrast to the sides that were not refinished.

Can I refinish my log home myself? Yes. Re-staining is not a complicated process.  We recommend cleaning your logs with a mixture of TSP (tri-sodium phosphate), a stiff brush and water.  A garden hose is good enough to thoroughly rinse off the TSP.  We do NOT recommend the use of power washers.  If there are small areas where the stain is pealing, you need to prep these areas to get rid of this pealing stain.  Sanding with an orbital sander is usually the most efficient way to do this.

After the logs have a chance to dry, the stain is applied using either an airless sprayer or a brush.  Either way it is applied, it needs to be “back brushed” very well.  Back brushing is going over each newly stained area with a brush working in the stain to get it to soak further into the logs.

Pealing finishHow do I know if my logs need blasting? If your stain is pealing over large areas of the logs, then you may want to consider having the logs blasted to prepare them for staining.  This process is not recommended for homeowners to do themselves because of the heavy equipment that is necessary and the special training needed to remove stain by this process. Log home refinishing – on a timely basis – is your assurance that your investment is protected.

Here are some relevant links to our website:

Finishing your log home
Blasting to remove old finish
Why NOT to use a power washer
Matching the color of new stain to older stain
Darkening, pealing finish

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“Film-forming finishes” are not a good choice for log homes

Repair and restoration of log homes – In our 30 years in the log home restoration and repair business, we have seen many disastrous problems with rot in log homes. Some of the most tragic problems we have seen have been the result of having what I refer to as a “film-forming finish” on the logs.

up-facing cracks can lead to rot

Darkening logs is indicative of failing "film forming finish". This one had up-facing checks that caused some of the rot issues, as well.

When I say tragic I mean we have seen extensive rot in homes that are 10 years old or less. While the rotted logs cannot be blamed solely on these “film-forming finishes”, it is certainly a factor that adds significantly to their decay.

Let me take a minute to explain what I mean by “film-forming finishes” and what we expect from finishes in general and then get into how they can cause problems on log homes and cabins. (more…)

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