Edmunds and Company is excited to welcome back our old friend, Blaise Sopiwnik. Blaise started working with Edmunds and Company long ago as a teenager, alongside his father, Jesse.
Jesse is now a foreman and one of the company’s longest standing crew members. For the last three years, Blaise has been an admissions counselor at Northland College in Ashland, WI, where he oversaw a three-year increase in enrollment.
Blaise with his brother, John. A fish caught off-hours on a restoration job in Wisconsin.
Blaise brings to the table his project management and marketing skills as well as a fresh outlook. This spring, Blaise and I will be working together to write a series of articles about our experience restoring and repairing log homes, so stay tuned. Welcome back, Blaise!
Well, the log home refinishing and stain season has definitely come to an end. If you got your project done this summer, you can rest assured that your log home is protected. If your project got put off to next year, that’s OK too.
Don't do the blasting if you can't get the stain on it soon after.
It’s never too early to start thinking about the process of protecting your logs from the elements. There are always several steps in this process. Preparation is by far the most important and difficult to get right. Getting the surface of your logs ready to accept a stain may involve blasting off old, deteriorated finish, cleaning the logs with oxygen bleach or simply washing them with a garden hose. It all depends on the condition of your logs.
When the logs are “raw” after blasting, we recommend applying a borate treatment to protect the logs against future rot. The final step in log home refinishing is applying a quality log home stain to the logs to protect them from the elements, including UV protection. Read on to learn more about different choices in stains, their advantages and disadvantages.
Darkened stain - before blasting
Log home stains are continually evolving and improving. Some stains that “in there day” were considered to be top-of-line have not stood the test of time. Certainly the improvements made are steps in the right direction. That said, I wish I could say that there is a “bullet-proof stain” as far as log home stains go but in our experience – there isn’t.
So what we look for are the good stains vs. the ones to stay away from. Our 30+ years of experience in the log home restoration business have resulted in a body of knowledge about refinishing and in particular – what type of stain to recommend to our customers. (more…)
Log home maintenance, done on a routine basis, is your best homeowners insurance against costly repairs. Check this out:
Time for new stain.
1. Keep the finish on the exterior logs in good shape. This means checking it every year on every side of your house to make sure when you wet the logs, water will still bead up and the finish is not fading or graying.
2. Make sure the caulking or chinking between your logs is in good shape… no cracks or splits in it.
3. Make sure the decks on the home are flashed correctly and are not allowing moisture to be held up against the logs.
4. Caulk up-facing checks in your logs if they are ¼” wider or more or are in vulnerable places on your home, i.e. just above a deck surface or on a high gable wall.
Check for leaks in gutters
5. Keep gutters on your home functioning properly, i.e. not full of leaves or debris and not leaking. This will also help to keep the logs dry. Splash back from decks is the #1 cause of log rot.
Log home maintenance includes all sorts of aspects for insuring that your log home stays “healthy”. It is important to start out the life of a log home the right way. In the course of working with new log homeowners on getting their log homes refinished and stained, I have run into some consistent confusion when it comes to the use of chlorine bleach and preserving log homes.
Before finishing new log homes for the first time, some builders and homeowners are using a highly concentrated mix of chlorine bleach and water (more than 8oz. of bleach per gallon). This solution is used to remove discoloration or molds left from the time that the building was under construction or from when the logs sat out in the elements. The problem with this method is that it can leave a residue and impregnate the logs with bleach and moisture, especially if a power washer is used. If this residue is left and it is not rinsed completely away, the results can be afailing finish in less than a year.
Most of finish companies do not want this highly concentrated chlorine bleach mixture applied to the logs prior to the application of their stains. In my opinion, one should first should try dry methods of cleaning the logs such as corn or glass blastingand if that doesn’t take care of the discoloration, then try oxygen bleach. Finally as a last resort – chlorine bleaching may be used.
Note: Applying a neutralizer or oxygen bleach after chlorine bleach before staining can be an effective way to get rid of residue and help ensure that no interactions occur. With any of the “wet” methods of cleaning logs, a moisture meter needs to be used to make sure that the moisture content is at or below the recommended levels for the finish being applied.
RELATED LINKS AND MORE TIPS ON LOG HOME MAINTENANCE:
You can see a bit of the before and after blasting.
On this home, after we did the blasting, we applied a borate treatment, chinked around the windows and doors and finally, we re-stained the logs and trim. Basically a full service job.
On other jobs, we may come in and do only rotten log replacement or only do the blasting and borate treatment.
For customers who are more inclined to do some of there own maintenance themselves, this can be a good option. In these cases, we work with the owner to help him/her choose the right stain. We can even connect them with suppliers of the stains who can drop ship right to their door. Click here to learn more about choosing the right stain.
Whether it is a full service/whole house project or an à la carte project, we can help with log home refinishing. We work with our clients to determine how they are most comfortable getting the job done and then… we get it done right.
Check out our blasting video to get an idea of how it is done.
Log home refinishing is more than just applying another coat of stain. Sometimes it’s necessary to remove the existing finish completely, getting back to the bare wood, and then apply new stain. When a log home is finished with a quality log home stain and that stain is maintained properly, rot can be avoided.
Darkening logs is indictitive of failing "film-forming finish". This one had up-facing checks that caused some of the rot issues, as well.
In our 30+ years in the log home restoration business, we have seen many disastrous problems with rot in log homes that were related to the finish on the logs. Some of the most tragic problems we have seen have been the result of having what I refer to as a “film-forming finish” on the logs.
It is a widely accepted rule in the log home industry that we expect finishes on log homes to breathe. Logs naturally have a large ability to soak up moisture and so any finish that is applied to them needs to be breathable to allow the logs to dry out when they get wet. Film forming finishes are defined by the fact that they sit on the surface of the log and after the initial application don’t generally soak into the wood at all. Instead, they form a film on the surface of the logs.
When the wood gets wet (and stays wet), it causes problems. The problem with these film-forming finishes is that they do not allow the wood to breathe enough and this in turn can lead to some serious rot problems. Film-forming finishes include the Sikkens Cetol system and at least one of the Behr “premium” stains. (more…)
Log home refinishing has changed over the years because of the changes in the products used. We get asked at least a few times a month about the advantages of oil based vs. latex based stains on log homes. This seems to be the “age old debate” in the log home community. In brief, we recommend the latex based stains when finishing your log home and here is why.
About ten years ago, the EPA made a set of rules that are effectively going to make oil stain a thing of the past. The rules have been phased in. The companies that make log home stain have been putting all their research and development efforts into the “next generation” latex stains. These are stains that contain latex based pigments.
Notice the contrast between the darkened logs and the crowns that had already been blasted to remove the built up finish.
The oil based stains are still around mainly because they continue to sell and many people still swear by them. The reality is that the stain companies will have to change them significantly to comply with current environmental law. Another drawback of the oil-based stains is that some oil stains have a problem with “buildup”. These film-building stains can build up to the point that they can cause problems with rotting logs.
The new latex stains are lasting longer and longer and they lack the buildup problems that oils have. These are two reasons why the scales have tipped for us to the side of the latex based stains. There is still no magic bullet for semi-transparent stains. The reality is that you need to keep up with a re-coat schedule on your house. It is our opinion that when it comes to log home refinishing… we recommend using latex stains.
Log home refinishing, on a regular basis, is the most important ongoing maintenance that a log home owner does. Whether you do it yourself or have a professional do the work, keeping up with the refinishing of your log home is the key factor in keeping your logs in good condition. Most semi-transparent stains need to be recoated about every 3-5 years, depending on the specifics of your site and the design of your home.
Here are some common questions asked about refinishing log homes:
How do I know when it is time for routine log home refinishing? If the stain is looking chalky, the logs are looking dry or the stain is beginning to peal, you need to investigate having your logs refinished. You can also spray an area using a household spray bottle and see if the water beads up. If it does not bead water – you need to refinish your logs. The upward facing parts of the logs are most apt to breakdown, largely due to the UV from the sun breaking down the finish. (more…)
Repair and restoration of log homes – In our 30 years in the log home restoration and repair business, we have seen many disastrous problems with rot in log homes. Some of the most tragic problems we have seen have been the result of having what I refer to as a “film-forming finish” on the logs.
Darkening logs is indicative of failing "film forming finish". This one had up-facing checks that caused some of the rot issues, as well.
When I say tragic I mean we have seen extensive rot in homes that are 10 years old or less. While the rotted logs cannot be blamed solely on these “film-forming finishes”, it is certainly a factor that adds significantly to their decay.
Let me take a minute to explain what I mean by “film-forming finishes” and what we expect from finishes in general and then get into how they can cause problems on log homes and cabins. (more…)