Comments for http://www.restorelogs.com/blog Useful information about log home repair/maintenance Thu, 22 Sep 2011 23:39:30 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.1.3 Comment on Log home refinishing – Best practices for removing old finish by Matthew Edmunds http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-home-refinishing-%e2%80%93-best-practices-for-removing-old-finish/comment-page-1#comment-949 Matthew Edmunds Thu, 22 Sep 2011 23:39:30 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=1202#comment-949 I was asked today about the different medias we use to blast log homes including the use of corn cob in log home blasting. 80% of the jobs that we do now are with recycled glass. While it may be counter intuitive; cob actually can do more damage to the wood fibers than a harder material like glass. Here is why; when you bring the nozzle of the blaster over any area and you have to stay in one spot longer ( and you do with the corn) .......this heats up the surface. Our experience has showed us that this heating actually re-bonds the finish to the wood and makes the operator have to stay even longer in order to get the material off. With the glass; the paint or stain is removed quickly and the surface remains cold and brittle and the wood fibers stay solid. Obviously this is a general rule and does not hold true for every situation. That is why we look at each job to determine what media is best for a given project. Cob can be useful in some situations where there is a lot of aluminum trim around because the the cob will not etch glass or the trim. One needs experience to be able to know what media to use when. We have this experience. Call us at 877-378-4403 to set up an appointment to have your log home inspected. Matt Edmunds - Edmunds and Company Log Home Restorations, llc www.restorelogs.com log home cob blasting I was asked today about the different medias we use to blast log homes including the use of corn cob in log home blasting. 80% of the jobs that we do now are with recycled glass. While it may be counter intuitive; cob actually can do more damage to the wood fibers than a harder material like glass. Here is why; when you bring the nozzle of the blaster over any area and you have to stay in one spot longer ( and you do with the corn) …….this heats up the surface. Our experience has showed us that this heating actually re-bonds the finish to the wood and makes the operator have to stay even longer in order to get the material off. With the glass; the paint or stain is removed quickly and the surface remains cold and brittle and the wood fibers stay solid. Obviously this is a general rule and does not hold true for every situation. That is why we look at each job to determine what media is best for a given project. Cob can be useful in some situations where there is a lot of aluminum trim around because the the cob will not etch glass or the trim. One needs experience to be able to know what media to use when. We have this experience. Call us at 877-378-4403 to set up an appointment to have your log home inspected.

Matt Edmunds – Edmunds and Company Log Home Restorations, llc

http://www.restorelogs.com

log home cob blasting

]]> Comment on Log home maintenance: Porcupines are chewing on my log home… by Bill Frykberg http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-home-maintenance-porcupines-are-chewing-on-my-log-home%e2%80%a6/comment-page-1#comment-903 Bill Frykberg Sun, 18 Sep 2011 13:34:53 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=1184#comment-903 LogFinish.com has a product that has proven effective in getting rid of all kinds of log home pests. It is NBS 30. It is a citronella based product that you can add to log home finish or just add to water and spray it on. Give it a try. LogFinish.com has a product that has proven effective in getting rid of all kinds of log home pests. It is NBS 30. It is a citronella based product that you can add to log home finish or just add to water and spray it on. Give it a try.

]]> Comment on Log home refinishing: How to choose a stain – oil based vs. next generation latex stains by Bjorn http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-home-refinishing-how-to-choose-a-stain-%e2%80%93-oil-based-vs-next-generation-latex-stains/comment-page-1#comment-872 Bjorn Fri, 16 Sep 2011 16:01:06 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=850#comment-872 Great article~ The world of waterborne has come a long way. Now with multiple step products as well as fantastic single coat -transparent/semi-transparent/semi-solid & solid products as well. They are lower VOC, better color retention, works better on higher moisture (which most logs have) and in our changing climate give you more chances to get a project done in a damp summer. Great article~ The world of waterborne has come a long way. Now with multiple step products as well as fantastic single coat -transparent/semi-transparent/semi-solid & solid products as well. They are lower VOC, better color retention, works better on higher moisture (which most logs have) and in our changing climate give you more chances to get a project done in a damp summer.

]]> Comment on Log home maintenance tips for new homes – Cleaning exterior logs with bleach by Bjorn Hanson http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-home-maintenance-tips-for-new-homes-%e2%80%93-cleaning-exterior-logs-with-bleach/comment-page-1#comment-768 Bjorn Hanson Mon, 29 Aug 2011 15:55:53 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=1097#comment-768 Great Subject. From the coatings side the biggest issue created on logs is "MOISTURE". Sanding & Blasting is still the BEST prep that can be done. The high bleach mixture is kind of a kiss on the cheek. It brightens them up but does not really help the situation. For a wet cleaning 4-8 oz of bleach per gallon of water is plenty to kill any mold or mildew. That is the purpose of the bleach. Then rinse. Although then you need to ensure that the substrate is properly dry before the application of a coating. Best bet~ Blast or Sand then coat. Great Subject. From the coatings side the biggest issue created on logs is “MOISTURE”. Sanding & Blasting is still the BEST prep that can be done. The high bleach mixture is kind of a kiss on the cheek. It brightens them up but does not really help the situation. For a wet cleaning 4-8 oz of bleach per gallon of water is plenty to kill any mold or mildew. That is the purpose of the bleach. Then rinse. Although then you need to ensure that the substrate is properly dry before the application of a coating. Best bet~ Blast or Sand then coat.

]]> Comment on Chinking log homes – An important part of maintenance by Matt Edmunds http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/chinking-log-homes-an-important-part-of-maintenance/comment-page-1#comment-560 Matt Edmunds Tue, 16 Aug 2011 15:05:29 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=981#comment-560 One question that came up from this post is about 'sanded' caulking. Sanded caulking like 'energy seal' from Permachink is sort of between caulking and chinking in the sense that it has a small amount of 'aggregate' compared to the chinking that has more and the caulking that has none. These sanded caulking products are good if you want the smallest line possible and want the superior adhesion an aggregate type product. These sanded products fill a line that you want to be thin and still have the qualities of chinking. Caulking still has its place....its important choose the right product for your log home chinking / caulking project. I hope this clarifies things...... One question that came up from this post is about ‘sanded’ caulking. Sanded caulking like ‘energy seal’ from Permachink is sort of between caulking and chinking in the sense that it has a small amount of ‘aggregate’ compared to the chinking that has more and the caulking that has none. These sanded caulking products are good if you want the smallest line possible and want the superior adhesion an aggregate type product. These sanded products fill a line that you want to be thin and still have the qualities of chinking. Caulking still has its place….its important choose the right product for your log home chinking / caulking project. I hope this clarifies things……

]]> Comment on Log home maintenance you can do yourself – caulking cracks in your logs by Edmunds & Company http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-home-maintenance-you-can-do-yourself-%e2%80%93-caulking-cracks-in-your-logs/comment-page-1#comment-508 Edmunds & Company Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:55:06 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=1034#comment-508 Here is some additional information on how to caulk these checks. • Stuff flexible backer rod such as SOF rod into the check to about 3/8" from the surface. • Sometimes we use painters’ tape to mask off the surface of the log to prevent caulking from being smeared on the surface of the log. • Next step is to apply a good quality silicon-ized latex caulk (not pure silicon) into the check bringing it out close, but not even, with the surface of the log. • Now the caulking is skimmed off with your finger or a putty knife being carful to make sure the caulking makes strong contact with the top and bottom of the check. • Finally, if tape was applied remove it. Now that you have caulked checks on your house, you need to make this a place that you routinely inspect to make sure that the caulking has not split or cracked. Caulking that has split is the main reason we don't recommend caulking checks under 1/4". Checks less than 1/4" wide move so much as a percentage of their size that they are almost impossible to keep filled. The caulking simply can’t handle this amount of movement. Filling checks is part of an overall water management plan. Failure to control water is a guarantee of future problems including rotten logs and failure of finishes and chinking. Applying a quality caulk can seal these up-facing cracks and prevent water from penetrating into the log. For more information on how we handle problematic cracks, contact us. 877-378-4403 or email us at info@restorelogs.com Here is some additional information on how to caulk these checks.

• Stuff flexible backer rod such as SOF rod into the check to about 3/8″ from the surface.

• Sometimes we use painters’ tape to mask off the surface of the log to prevent caulking from being smeared on the surface of the log.

• Next step is to apply a good quality silicon-ized latex caulk (not pure silicon) into the check bringing it out close, but not even, with the surface of the log.

• Now the caulking is skimmed off with your finger or a putty knife being carful to make sure the caulking makes strong contact with the top and bottom of the check.

• Finally, if tape was applied remove it.

Now that you have caulked checks on your house, you need to make this a place that you routinely inspect to make sure that the caulking has not split or cracked. Caulking that has split is the main reason we don’t recommend caulking checks under 1/4″. Checks less than 1/4″ wide move so much as a percentage of their size that they are almost impossible to keep filled. The caulking simply can’t handle this amount of movement.

Filling checks is part of an overall water management plan. Failure to control water is a guarantee of future problems including rotten logs and failure of finishes and chinking. Applying a quality caulk can seal these up-facing cracks and prevent water from penetrating into the log.

For more information on how we handle problematic cracks, contact us.
877-378-4403 or email us at info@restorelogs.com

]]> Comment on Log rot repair – Epoxy fillers are not a good solution. by matt@restorelogs.com http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-rot-repair-epoxy-fillers-are-not-a-good-solution/comment-page-1#comment-11 matt@restorelogs.com Tue, 19 Oct 2010 01:27:33 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=218#comment-11 I can understand your concern and I appreciate the feedback. I do think you come to this from a bit of a different point of view than the average log home owner. It was once explained to me by the historic architect at the Minnesota State Historical Society that from a "historical" perspective one needs to treat these log buildings as if Lincoln himself may have touched these logs. For this reason in "historical log home restoration" one wants to preserve, preserve, preserve. In my opinion there are special cases where fillers can be a good choice : the above mentioned historical considerations and a few practical ones. For example if the end of a 50' long purlin was rotted at the end, one would not choose to replace the whole log. For example here is a project we did for the State of Minnesota back in 2004: The sixth photo in this sequence shows us repairing the end of a purlin by cutting off about 16" of rot and creating a lapped joint with a new piece of cedar log. <a href="http://www.restorelogs.com/historic-log-building-restoration-bemidji-state-park.htm" rel="nofollow">Click here.</a> In short, it is my opinion wood is preferred. But... if the rotten spot was small in size and did not compromise the integrity of the log, then one could choose a filler for this application. This filler should be synthetic chinking or one of the sanded caulking materials. I would clean out the rot, treat with borates, fill any void behind the surface with expanding foam, allow this to cure, trim the foam and apply chinking or caulking over it. The advantage of this is that the material remains flexible and will last. My experience with epoxy fillers is that they tend to break around the edges of the patch and eventually (not too long) let in water and the rot will continue. This is the biggest reason not to use epoxy to fill these areas. I know some folks might say that the chinking won't look as good as the epoxy filler and I would say they are right. Bottom line: Epoxy fillers don't do the job! Matt Edmunds- Edmunds and Company Log Home Restorations I can understand your concern and I appreciate the feedback. I do think you come to this from a bit of a different point of view than the average log home owner. It was once explained to me by the historic architect at the Minnesota State Historical Society that from a “historical” perspective one needs to treat these log buildings as if Lincoln himself may have touched these logs. For this reason in “historical log home restoration” one wants to preserve, preserve, preserve. In my opinion there are special cases where fillers can be a good choice : the above mentioned historical considerations and a few practical ones. For example if the end of a 50′ long purlin was rotted at the end, one would not choose to replace the whole log. For example here is a project we did for the State of Minnesota back in 2004: The sixth photo in this sequence shows us repairing the end of a purlin by cutting off about 16″ of rot and creating a lapped joint with a new piece of cedar log. Click here.

In short, it is my opinion wood is preferred. But… if the rotten spot was small in size and did not compromise the integrity of the log, then one could choose a filler for this application. This filler should be synthetic chinking or one of the sanded caulking materials. I would clean out the rot, treat with borates, fill any void behind the surface with expanding foam, allow this to cure, trim the foam and apply chinking or caulking over it. The advantage of this is that the material remains flexible and will last. My experience with epoxy fillers is that they tend to break around the edges of the patch and eventually (not too long) let in water and the rot will continue. This is the biggest reason not to use epoxy to fill these areas. I know some folks might say that the chinking won’t look as good as the epoxy filler and I would say they are right. Bottom line: Epoxy fillers don’t do the job!

Matt Edmunds- Edmunds and Company Log Home Restorations

]]> Comment on Log rot repair – Epoxy fillers are not a good solution. by ameyer http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-rot-repair-epoxy-fillers-are-not-a-good-solution/comment-page-1#comment-10 ameyer Fri, 15 Oct 2010 16:02:25 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=218#comment-10 I work for a state agency that has to have all of our log building resoration work approved by a State Historic Preservation board. The preservation board favors preservation of existing materials to replacement, so as a result, we tend to use wood epoxy/sawdust mix solutions more often than you would. We use it mostly in the situation that you said it was most suited for; minimal rot on the end of a rafter tail or exterior rafter support log. I would appreciate any tips that you have for using the product as successfully as possible. I work for a state agency that has to have all of our log building resoration work approved by a State Historic Preservation board. The preservation board favors preservation of existing materials to replacement, so as a result, we tend to use wood epoxy/sawdust mix solutions more often than you would. We use it mostly in the situation that you said it was most suited for; minimal rot on the end of a rafter tail or exterior rafter support log. I would appreciate any tips that you have for using the product as successfully as possible.

]]> Comment on Log home maintenance – Another story from on the road by crowed http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-home-maintenance-another-story-from-on-the-road/comment-page-1#comment-9 crowed Fri, 11 Jun 2010 16:13:42 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=245#comment-9 An excellent nexus of threads well woven; nicely told; a JS forte! An excellent nexus of threads well woven; nicely told; a JS forte!

]]> Comment on Log rot repair – Epoxy fillers are not a good solution. by matt@restorelogs.com http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-rot-repair-epoxy-fillers-are-not-a-good-solution/comment-page-1#comment-8 matt@restorelogs.com Thu, 27 May 2010 19:40:11 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=218#comment-8 Some folks have been asking what some of these "epoxy' products are. Here are the names of a few that we have seen marketed around the log home industry: LiquidWood, Ewood, Restoration Epoxy, Wood Epox and Famowood Instant Wood Repair. Just to be clear, Epoxy is epoxy. I do not have a problem with these products in general. I do not recommend them for repairing rotted wood on log homes. Some folks have been asking what some of these “epoxy’ products are. Here are the names of a few that we have seen marketed around the log home industry: LiquidWood, Ewood, Restoration Epoxy, Wood Epox and Famowood Instant Wood Repair. Just to be clear, Epoxy is epoxy. I do not have a problem with these products in general. I do not recommend them for repairing rotted wood on log homes.

]]> Comment on “Film-forming finishes” are not a good choice for log homes by matt@restorelogs.com http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/film-forming-finishes-are-not-a-good-choice-for-log-homes/comment-page-1#comment-7 matt@restorelogs.com Sat, 08 May 2010 00:27:51 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=144#comment-7 I forwarded this blog post to a few other suppliers in the log home industry and received some email comments back that made me think I did need to clarify a point in this article. The problem with these film forming finishes and stains is that with the second or third application so much of the product has "built" up that the breathability of the finish is compromised to the point that the moisture in a given log can get in the range that decay can start to happen. Now, for decay to happen there needs to be a significant moisture input to the logs. So... its the combination of the moisture input and the film forming finishes lack of breathability that adds up to decay. These finishes are not allowing enough of the moisture to escape to wood. This is the problem. Matt Edmunds - Edmunds and Company Log Home Restoration, llc. I forwarded this blog post to a few other suppliers in the log home industry and received some email comments back that made me think I did need to clarify a point in this article. The problem with these film forming finishes and stains is that with the second or third application so much of the product has “built” up that the breathability of the finish is compromised to the point that the moisture in a given log can get in the range that decay can start to happen. Now, for decay to happen there needs to be a significant moisture input to the logs. So… its the combination of the moisture input and the film forming finishes lack of breathability that adds up to decay. These finishes are not allowing enough of the moisture to escape to wood. This is the problem.
Matt Edmunds – Edmunds and Company Log Home Restoration, llc.

]]> Comment on “Film-forming finishes” are not a good choice for log homes by decor54868 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/film-forming-finishes-are-not-a-good-choice-for-log-homes/comment-page-1#comment-6 decor54868 Fri, 07 May 2010 13:05:22 +0000 http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/?p=144#comment-6 As we carry a multitude of Ext. coatings for wood, I very much agree with Matt. With the correct application Film Forming products are good for certain applications. On Full Logs non-film forming products work the best. Sansin, Defy, Benjamin Moore and Sikkens all make non-film forming products. The best thing to do is to talk to a professional like those at Edmunds to find the best product for your application. As we carry a multitude of Ext. coatings for wood, I very much agree with Matt. With the correct application Film Forming products are good for certain applications. On Full Logs non-film forming products work the best. Sansin, Defy, Benjamin Moore and Sikkens all make non-film forming products. The best thing to do is to talk to a professional like those at Edmunds to find the best product for your application.

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