Archive for the ‘Log Home Maintenance’ Category

Rot in log homes – What can I do to prevent log rot in my home?

While log rot is a common problem in log homes, it does not have to be. Unfortunately, many log home owners are unaware of the log rot in their structure until the damage is already done.

rotten logs are not aways obvious

At first glance, these look like solid logs.

The reality is that by the time you can see the decay in the wood – it is many times too late to do anything but replace a given log. For this reason, it is important to spend a little time getting to know your log home or cabin.

By this I mean looking for places on the home that could potentially be getting wet. It is really very simple. If an area (for example: log end, sill log, or perlin end) is getting significantly wet during a rainstorm… it is on its way to rotting.

rot is not always obvious

Upon closer inspection, there is rot. Click on photo to see how deep the knife sinks.

I want people to understand that rot is like a tide moving in slowly not an earthquake. Rot happens over a period of at least a few years and most times a decade or more.

So… grab an umbrella next time the clouds well up and take a walk around your log home looking for areas of concern. Make note of them so you know which ones to pay attention to when you do your routine checks. Click here for more information on how to tell if a log is rotten.

Related links:

Lower logs getting wet near a deck?
Maybe I need gutters?
Log extending out to long?

Log home chinking – then and now

By Blaise Sopiwnik

Chinking is what makes a primitive log structure into a place anyone would call home.  Early in human history, dwellings of all shapes and sizes had some sort of material stuffed in between logs, rocks, or framing.  The process of chinking (sealing) in warmth and sealing out cold, mice, bats and other vermin can be done in many ways.

mortar chinking

An example of using mortar chinking

Early log homes in America could have had anything from horsehair to moss from the forest floor. It usually consisted of any material that was inexpensive and easily attained, most often a dry fiber that had some insulation value.

chinking logs

Making sure that the bottom logs are carefully chinked.

On the chinking project we are working on this week near Duluth, MN the log lodge had oakum jammed in between the logs, which was very common for a turn-of-the-century structure. Oakum is usually long hemp fibers soaked in oil or a pine tar-like substance. When you look at the pictures, you will notice that the logs are already close together and some are scribed to each other leaving very little space for air in between the logs.

chinking log home

We have custom-made tools to do the job right.

When woodworkers took extra time and care in building the log walls, very little material was needed to seal the joint between the logs. I always appreciate their craftsmanship and imagine how patient and detail-oriented the person must have been.

Today, when chinking log buildings using latex-based chink, we use specific tools to speed up the application while making every effort to deliver the craftsmanship that has been shown as an example before us. After years of seeing different styles and methods of applying chink, I appreciate what practice can do to create a quality finished look.

log home that is chinked

A log home where the chinking is stained so that it blends in with the logs.

If you look at these pictures and have any questions on how we approached different aspects of this building, please post on our “Ask an Expert” link to the right.

Log home repair – Rotting log ends are a real problem.

rotten log end

A crown extending out too far is susceptible to rotting.

Many times in the course of doing our log home repairs around Minnesota and Wisconsin, we run into logs ends (a.k.a. crowns) that are left too long. By this I mean they are so long that they stick out into the elements more than is necessary. Spring is a good time to think about keeping these logs dry and thus keeping them from rotting.

new crowns

Crowns are replaced and kept within the drip line of the roof.

Here is a link to a featured project we recently finished that shows what happens when logs are left too long:

http://www.restorelogs.com/log-home-replacing-crowns-rhinelander-wisconsin.htm

If you have logs that extend outside the drip line of the roof (getting rain on them when the wind is not blowing) they need to be trimmed off to get them within the drip edge.  This simple step – along with proper treatment – can save thousands of dollars in log home repair down the road.

Log Home Restoration on the Family Summer Lodge by Blaise Sopiwnik

Starting a new log home restoration project can be an exploration of the past. As an interesting aside to all the hard work, dust and noise associated with the first week of a log project, I am looking for clues. Many times there are clues and evidence on the logs about what has been unfolding for years. How did this log building come to be in the condition where it needs restoration work? Most often I am drawn to the conclusion that diligent maintenance could have solved all the problems we uncover.

rotten base logs

Notice all the debris that has held moisture up against the logs causing them to rot.

While starting our first project of the year this past week, we had to make decisive assessments in order to extract the first rotten logs. While the first hints of spring rain clouds rolled in over the top of the old growth white pines, we needed to make sure the logs that were being extracted were kept out of the mud and rocks. Years of leaves and landscaping debris had filled in and completely engulfed the bottom logs on three sides of this building. Annual cleaning and raking could have prevented this from being an issue, but other factors were involved in this situation as well. (more…)

Log Home Maintenance in Wisconsin and Minnesota — Mold on logs? What to do…

Question: I have mold on some of my logs where there used to be a stack of wood up against the house. Last year, I removed the stacked wood and tried bleaching the mold off of the logs and then stained them. I noticed this spring that the mold returned.

I want to know what type of product you recommend that I use to eliminate the mold. I was thinking about Oxi-Clean and Bora-Care but I wasn’t sure if there is a better solution. Please advise

Answer: Mold is the beginnings of decay or rot. When blackening or discoloration forms in this way, it is important to take action right away.

mold growing on logs

This is an extreme example of what can happen when logs have been exposed too long to moisture.

There are certainly a number of specific causes for mold growing on wood.  The one thing they all have in common is MOISTURE! If the log has mold — it is too wet or was too wet. What to do?

Sanding down the area in question is the first step.  When sanding, pay attention to whether or not the wood seems wet or dry. If it is wet and soft, you probably have a problem with rot. Click here for how to replace rotten logs.

After sanding, apply Bora-Care (a highly concentrated form of borates) at least three times in the space of a day or so.  Make sure the area dries out completely, keeping rain off it for at least a week. (more…)

Introducing Spring 2012 Log Blog Article Series

Written by Matt Edmunds and Blaise Sopiwnik

I have spent many days, from childhood until now, in the dark, less-than- pristine underbellies of the old log buildings we restore. During these hours, I have often wondered what might have caused the builders of long ago to construct this particular log building. Who were the builders? Why this style? Why this place?

Whole log home

An example of a whole log home with scribed corners

In restoring and repairing log homes, I am interested in understanding what might have influenced people to build a certain structure, with a particular technique, in that particular spot. Sometimes this holds the key to figuring out how we will fix a given problem within a building. Sometimes we just find interest in pondering the building and the family folklore it holds.

In an upcoming series of blog postings, we will explore the different types of log homes and the histories they each hold here in the Midwest. We hope that the reader will come away not only with an understanding of the nuts and bolts of how these log homes were constructed, but begin to wonder why they were built. I have always wanted to describe the different types of log homes as a way to help log homeowners better understand and maintain their cabins and homes.

So here we go. Over the next two or three months, we will post a series of blog articles exploring different types of log home construction. We hope you find this informative and interesting.

Edmunds & Company Welcomes Blaise Back

blaise is back!

Welcome back Blaise!

Edmunds and Company is excited to welcome back our old friend, Blaise Sopiwnik. Blaise started working with Edmunds and Company long ago as a teenager, alongside his father, Jesse.

Jesse is now a foreman and one of the company’s longest standing crew members. For the last three years, Blaise has been an admissions counselor at Northland College in Ashland, WI, where he oversaw a three-year increase in enrollment.

blaise and John sopiwnik

Blaise with his brother, John. A fish caught off-hours on a restoration job in Wisconsin.

Blaise brings to the table his project management and marketing skills as well as a fresh outlook. This spring, Blaise and I will be working together to write a series of articles about our experience restoring and repairing log homes, so stay tuned. Welcome back, Blaise!

 

Log home refinishing – Best practices for removing old finish

In the log home refinishing business, we get asked many times each year about the advantages of blasting logs with a “dry” vs. “wet” process to remove old finish.

blasting off finishWe have found that in most cases, the blasting process or “dry” process (be it corn cob, crushed glass or sand) is the right process for the logs. Blasting uses compressed air to shoot a “media” at the building.  We use recycled glass now for most applications on the log homes we refinish because we are so impressed with the results we get.

Water blasting with a power washer is not our method of choice for several reasons:

  • Water is the enemy of logs. It is what causes rot and we don’t want to, in any way, contribute to this problem.
  • Power washers can damage the logs by destroying the grain or “fuzzing” the logs and creating long stringy rough surfaces.
  • damage from power washing

    Damage to log from power washing

  • Log homes are not completely air tight so water will make its way inside and this can cause staining on the interior logs, as well as create the potential for the development of dangerous indoor molds.

Blasting does little damage to the logs and keeps the log dry.  Power washing can cause ugly, stringy fuzz to be created.  I really don’t want to badmouth the folks that power wash but at a certain point one must look closely at the best practices here.

Here is another point to consider. If a power washer can be obtained for less than $500 and industrial-grade blasting equipment costs over $15,000, why would contractors choose blasting? The answer is that blasting simply works better and is less damaging to the logs in a number of ways.

We have been in the log home refinishing and restoration business for over 25 years.  We have removed every type of finish from log homes from the lightest semi-transparent stains to the thickest oil-based paints.

Here is a video of us blasting off finish:

 

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME REFINISHING:

Blasting vs. power washing
Here is a project we recently did
Why do logs rot?

Log home maintenance: Porcupines are chewing on my log home…

damage from porcupineLog home maintenance problems can come in all sorts of shapes and sizes but here is one that we hear about at least once every summer – porcupines chewing on the logs. In fact, three times over the last two months we have fielded calls from log home owners that have had this issue. This photo is a good example of the damage they can cause.

We asked Scott Cravin (Extension Wildlife Specialist and Professor of Wildlife Ecology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison) for an explanation. Here is what he said:

“Porcupines chew on all kinds of things…either to sharpen their teeth or because of some attraction in the glue, paint, sweat or whatever is on what they decide to chew on.

damage from porcupineSiding is usually attacked because of the bonding glue in plywood. Logs, as such, should not be much of an attraction unless whatever stain or preservative that is on them is attractive.

So….what to do? Corners and edges can be ‘armor-plated’ with angles of sheet metal, dry wall corners, hardware cloth, etc. but that may be unattractive. Repellents based on capsaicin (hot sauce is the active ingredient), thiram (a fungicide), or other mammal repellents could be applied. Even a small mesh bag of moth flakes/balls (napthalene) placed near damage may help. And there’s always the more direct approach of eliminating the offending animal. Good luck.” Scott Cravin

damage from porcupineIf your home is under attack by porcupines, you may want to consider following Scott’s advice, at least in the short run. If a porkie is gnawing off the finish on the logs, it is a good idea to take some measures to prevent it from continuing. At that point you will re-apply a good finish on your logs home.  To do this you will need to sand down the logs and reapply the stain.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS FOR LOG HOME MAINTENANCE:

Finishing log homes
Blasting log homes
A refinishing job we did in Gordon, WI

Log Home Maintenance – Top 10 ways to protect your log home and your investment

Log home maintenance, done on a routine basis, is your best homeowners insurance against costly repairs. Check this out:

darkened logs

Time for new stain.

1. Keep the finish on the exterior logs in good shape. This means checking it every year on every side of your house to make sure when you wet the logs, water will still bead up and the finish is not fading or graying.

2. Make sure the caulking or chinking between your logs is in good shape… no cracks or splits in it.

3. Make sure the decks on the home are flashed correctly and are not allowing moisture to be held up against the logs.

4. Caulk up-facing checks in your logs if they are ¼” wider or more or are in vulnerable places on your home, i.e. just above a deck surface or on a high gable wall.

Check for leaks in gutters

5. Keep gutters on your home functioning properly, i.e. not full of leaves or debris and not leaking. This will also help to keep the logs dry. Splash back from decks is the #1 cause of log rot.

6. Clean the exterior logs on your building once a year. Dust and pollen promote the start of decay. (more…)