Archive for the ‘Common Problems’ Category

Log home problems in “middle-aged” log homes

The following is an article written by Matt Edmunds. It first appeared in the magazine “Log Home Living” in their June 2012 issue.

Seal of excellence

We have restored log homes in the upper Midwest for over thirty years.  Our business started out of necessity back in 1978 when my father (former owner of Edmunds & Company) was looking to restore our family cabin in Northwestern Wisconsin.  Upon not finding anyone to do the work locally – he did the work himself.

After a decade or so of working on older places built between the 1880’s and 1950’s we started to see more “newer” homes that needed restoration. In the last 20 years, our work on log homes has shifted from almost exclusively working on homes built before 1950 to almost 60% of the homes we work on being built after 1950.

log home in WisconsinWhile the antique log home has its charm and many hold family memories and histories, this generation of log homes is not the focus of this article. Homes built since 1975 have their unique problems and I will go over some of these problems in detail to give the reader a road map for keeping them sound and livable for the next 40 years.  Many of these homes are used as year-round residences. This means that we want to be especially mindful about the necessity of maintaining them so that their owners may enjoy these beautiful structures for generations to come.

log ends are too long

This is a design flaw. The crowns stick out beyond the drip line, susceptible to rot.

Let me say that our fast-paced world has certainly affected the way log homes get built.  The statement that they “don’t build them like they used to” certainly holds true for many of these homes. Many were built with quickness in mind and constructed with cheap materials. If I could give one piece of advice going forward it is “do it right the first time”… it’s much easier than going back and fixing it later.  Investments in gutters and proper flashing, for example, can save thousands of dollars in repairs down the road.

Click here to view a PDF of  15 of the most common problems we see with middle-aged log homes and what can be done to remedy these issues.

If  you prefer to scroll down, here is the rest of the article.  (more…)

Borate treatment on log buildings is important

Borate treatment being applied

Applying PeneTreat boron-based treatment

Question:  I am refinishing my log home this spring. I have stripped the logs down to bare wood again and I have heard about using borates on the bare wood before staining. Is this is a necessary part of the refinishing process?

Carpenter ants infesting log home

This is what you want to avoid, carpenter ants feeding on your decaying logs.

Answer:  Yes……. borates are a good assurance against rot. They have been around for years and should always be part of the process of finishing when the logs are raw. Borates work by penetrating into the surface of the wood and treating the log against insects but more importantly – against decay.  Borates actually raises the pH level of the moisture latent in the wood to the point that the rot organism and consequently, insects are both impeded.  By doing this treatment, the logs are better protected against future rot and decay.

Related links:

About the process we use: http://restorelogs.com/borate-treatment.htm

Why do logs rot?  http://www.restorelogs.com/blog/log-home-dry-rot-is-a-bit-of-a-misnomer

Log Homes Using Turned or Manufactured Logs

Every season starts with expectations of what style of log home will come first. The first home this year that needed our restoration experience happened to be a 1980’s turned log style resort lodge. The charm was evident, as it was located on Rice Lake in Northern Wisconsin. Every place that Edmunds and Company sets out to restore has a story worth telling but let’s focus on the actual construction of this building and why we were hired.

turned logs

Turned logs are uniform in size.

Turned log style (where every log is exactly the same in diameter) is a style of construction that took off in the United States about 30 years ago. Over the years, different companies have manufactured kits and marketed package deals. Typically there is a raw processing plant that can manufacture uniform logs – one after the other – in an assembly style. These logs can be made into several sizes specific to a customer’s specifications. The notching can vary widely depending on preference and budget. For manufacturers – the style has proven to be a good use of non-uniform wood sources and this has reduced the cost of these log homes as well. (more…)

Log Home Maintenance in Wisconsin and Minnesota — Mold on logs? What to do…

Question: I have mold on some of my logs where there used to be a stack of wood up against the house. Last year, I removed the stacked wood and tried bleaching the mold off of the logs and then stained them. I noticed this spring that the mold returned.

I want to know what type of product you recommend that I use to eliminate the mold. I was thinking about Oxi-Clean and Bora-Care but I wasn’t sure if there is a better solution. Please advise

Answer: Mold is the beginnings of decay or rot. When blackening or discoloration forms in this way, it is important to take action right away.

mold growing on logs

This is an extreme example of what can happen when logs have been exposed too long to moisture.

There are certainly a number of specific causes for mold growing on wood.  The one thing they all have in common is MOISTURE! If the log has mold — it is too wet or was too wet. What to do?

Sanding down the area in question is the first step.  When sanding, pay attention to whether or not the wood seems wet or dry. If it is wet and soft, you probably have a problem with rot. Click here for how to replace rotten logs.

After sanding, apply Bora-Care (a highly concentrated form of borates) at least three times in the space of a day or so.  Make sure the area dries out completely, keeping rain off it for at least a week. (more…)

Log Home Construction Finnish-style by Blaise Sopiwnik

Here in Wisconsin and Minnesota, Finnish settlers have set the bar high for hewn log construction.  Finns are the ones who created the log cabin that we all envision. In this post I will discuss Finnish log homes, as well as how and why they were constructed. I will also give some examples of projects done on these original-style log homes illustrating some aspects of maintenance and repair of these structures. First I want to give you a description of what a hewn Finnish-style log home is.

Finnish dovetail hewn log structures are some of the most solid log buildings ever constructed. These buildings were all built with hand tools such as cross cut saws, broad-axes, mallets and different types of chisels. These were structures of necessity. Settlers needed shelter, often quickly, and they possessed the knowledge and the tools to build it. Logs were plentiful.

Finnish-style log home

The first consideration of any builder is its actual location and what species of mature trees could be harvested near by. The quality of mature trees was a main deciding factor in where to build. Trees were harvested on site in most cases. The desired species of trees included White Pine, Hemlock, Eastern White Cedar, and Oak.

After felling and limbing the trees, the builder would immediately set out to hew (flatten the log) and shape the logs to start drying out the timber. This included cross cutting the logs to a certain depth and then broad axing the extra material away from the log creating a top flat and a bottom flat with rounded edges on the sides. This process would expose heartwood, which is the hardest, most rot-resistant part of the tree. This also opened up the log to air dry the center, thus reducing the possibility for extreme shrinkage later in the building’s life.  Next it was time to lay out the corner dovetail joints. (more…)

Introducing Spring 2012 Log Blog Article Series

Written by Matt Edmunds and Blaise Sopiwnik

I have spent many days, from childhood until now, in the dark, less-than- pristine underbellies of the old log buildings we restore. During these hours, I have often wondered what might have caused the builders of long ago to construct this particular log building. Who were the builders? Why this style? Why this place?

Whole log home

An example of a whole log home with scribed corners

In restoring and repairing log homes, I am interested in understanding what might have influenced people to build a certain structure, with a particular technique, in that particular spot. Sometimes this holds the key to figuring out how we will fix a given problem within a building. Sometimes we just find interest in pondering the building and the family folklore it holds.

In an upcoming series of blog postings, we will explore the different types of log homes and the histories they each hold here in the Midwest. We hope that the reader will come away not only with an understanding of the nuts and bolts of how these log homes were constructed, but begin to wonder why they were built. I have always wanted to describe the different types of log homes as a way to help log homeowners better understand and maintain their cabins and homes.

So here we go. Over the next two or three months, we will post a series of blog articles exploring different types of log home construction. We hope you find this informative and interesting.

Log home repair – What can you put off until next year?

Now that the warm weather is behind us, we are busy finishing up the jobs we have lined up for the rest of our season. Once the snow flies, we take a break from log work and refinishing until next spring.

We are getting calls from people who are looking critically at their log homes and realizing that they are in need of some log home repair services.  They also realize that it is getting late in the season and they are wondering if it is detrimental for their logs if they wait until next year to have the repairs done.

blasting

Don't do the blasting if you can't get the stain on it soon after.

Here is some general advice: If you are thinking that the finish on your log home needs to be removed, but you are not sure you will be able to get it re-stained before the cold weather sets in, it is better to wait until spring to have the finish blasted off so that the new stain can be applied shortly following the blasting process. Letting logs go through a winter with no stain or protection on them is not advised.

What about logs that you know are rotten? Will they continue to rot over the winter and be even more deteriorated come spring? This is where cold weather is a benefit to logs with rot. The microorganisms that cause rot need to have temperatures in the 60-90 degree range. Once the temp drops below that range, the rotting process is halted temporarily until it warms up. Having said that, it is important to make sure that in the spring, the snow piles are not left to melt up against the logs. Moisture up against the logs is a problem waiting to happen.

cracks

A good example of checks that should be filled before winter.

The one thing that is advisable to do yet this fall is to check for cracks that are wider that ¼” and are on the up-facing side of the logs or in vulnerable places. Filling these checks with a quality caulk will keep the moisture from snow and rain from migrating into the logs and causing problems with rot. Click here for more information about filling checks and cracks in logs.

We are still doing estimates for people who are interested in having log home repair services done yet this year and we are also lining up projects for next spring. Give us a call at 877-378-4403 if you are interested in getting an estimate OR contact us via email.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME REPAIR

Top ten ways to protect your logs and your investment
Frequently asked questions
Common Problems

Log home dry rot and what can be done to resolve it

dry rotWe frequently get calls from log home owners saying, “My home has some dry rot.” When you look at the logs affected with rot, they DO look dry.

Whether the rot is dry or wet, rot equals decay and that is a serious problem in log buildings. Rot can lead to the need for replacing part or the entire log. There are several factors that can contribute to a log getting rot, but they all have to do with moisture getting into the wood. When wood fibers have a constant moisture level between 14-20%, wood will start to rot.

For more information on how we replace rotten logs, click here.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON PREVENTING LOG HOME DRY ROT

Why do logs rot?
What to look for when buying a log home
Proper way to flash a deck to a log wall

Log home maintenance: Porcupines are chewing on my log home…

damage from porcupineLog home maintenance problems can come in all sorts of shapes and sizes but here is one that we hear about at least once every summer – porcupines chewing on the logs. In fact, three times over the last two months we have fielded calls from log home owners that have had this issue. This photo is a good example of the damage they can cause.

We asked Scott Cravin (Extension Wildlife Specialist and Professor of Wildlife Ecology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison) for an explanation. Here is what he said:

“Porcupines chew on all kinds of things…either to sharpen their teeth or because of some attraction in the glue, paint, sweat or whatever is on what they decide to chew on.

damage from porcupineSiding is usually attacked because of the bonding glue in plywood. Logs, as such, should not be much of an attraction unless whatever stain or preservative that is on them is attractive.

So….what to do? Corners and edges can be ‘armor-plated’ with angles of sheet metal, dry wall corners, hardware cloth, etc. but that may be unattractive. Repellents based on capsaicin (hot sauce is the active ingredient), thiram (a fungicide), or other mammal repellents could be applied. Even a small mesh bag of moth flakes/balls (napthalene) placed near damage may help. And there’s always the more direct approach of eliminating the offending animal. Good luck.” Scott Cravin

damage from porcupineIf your home is under attack by porcupines, you may want to consider following Scott’s advice, at least in the short run. If a porkie is gnawing off the finish on the logs, it is a good idea to take some measures to prevent it from continuing. At that point you will re-apply a good finish on your logs home.  To do this you will need to sand down the logs and reapply the stain.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS FOR LOG HOME MAINTENANCE:

Finishing log homes
Blasting log homes
A refinishing job we did in Gordon, WI

Log home problems – rotting log railings

rotten pine postLog home problems sometimes include rotting railings around a porch or deck. The look of log railings is often desirable but railings are prone to rot for a number of reasons.

To get the most longevity out of your log railings, here are three things that we recommend homeowners do to extend the life of their log railings:

  1. Use caps on the top of the posts. These are available from a number of different outlets on the web. The nicest ones I have seen are made of copper and fit snugly around the top of the post. It is important to glue them on rather than using screws. This helps insure that moisture can’t penetrate into the end grain around the screws.
  2. At the bottom rail, we recommend drilling a ¼” hole up from the bottom into each larger hole coming from the top. What we are doing here is giving the water that will inevitably make its way into this hole a place to go and drain out the bottom.
  3. post sitting on spacerWe recommend “stand-off” post bases. These create an air space between the end grain of the post and the ground or footing.  By placing these post bases between the bottom of the post and the ground, air is allowed to move through this area and dry out the post.

Doing all these three of these things will add life to log rails.

The last important thing to do is to keep a good finish on the railings.  The fact that they are typically out in the sun and rain makes it very important to keep good finish on the railings.

Unfortunately, this is easier said than done. Railings have so many surfaces and contours that they are a real pain to apply and keep stain on. None-the-less, it is important to keep a quality stain on them, which is part of the solution to maintaining and extending the life of the railings and keeping them from becoming a log home problem that you have to solve.