Oily Soap (Or How to Win Friends and Influence Bosses)

The “road” is more than a straight line between departure and destination.  It is a place in itself, especially to those who practice their craft for Edmunds and Company Log Home Restorations.  Each place on the road has its unique characteristic, whether it is the house we are working on, or its location.  Life can be difficult on the road, but it also holds an attraction for us.  It is a world of its own.  Hence our tongue-in-cheek-dictum, “What happens on the Road, stays on the Road.”  Our crew really doesn’t have any lurid events to hide from those at home, but if it did, who would understand?  I believe the statute of limitations has run out on the story I am about to tell.

Back in 1993, the Jurassic Period of Edmunds and Company, Matt Edmunds’ father Peter, then owner of the company, announced a major project east of Burlington, Vermont near Underhill.  We would be restoring a family owned log home situated at the end of a dirt road and the trail head leading to Mt. Mansfield in the state park of that name.  It would be a working vacation and we were invited to bring the family.  Food and transportation were provided.  We log workers were thrilled to take the family on a long journey to the beautiful mountains of Vermont and get paid for it to boot.

We camped on the sight (most of us are experienced campers and canoeists) of the historic cabin built just after the Civil War.  It was almost beyond redemption but still worth saving.  We demolished the crumbling stone chimney and rotten floors, letting them fall into the dank cellar of the building.  We jacked up and supported walls, rebuilt the floor, then proceeded to replace rotten logs, imitating the joinery in vogue here during Abe Lincoln’s presidency.

Current and former crew members. Jesse and Peter are on the far right of the photo.

The camping went well despite a spell of rain that made the mud at Woodstock look like a day at the beach. The children explored the trails which followed crystal clear streams into the highlands.  Some families took side journeys to concert events, visits to nearby relatives or other attractions in the area.  Our sojourns to exotic pizza joints, or restaurants in Burlington on the weekends were enjoyed by all.  Mostly though, we cooked and ate wonderful meals right in camp.

One fine morning it was my wife Sue and my turn to make the camp breakfast for everyone.  I had brought maple syrup, harvested from my own woods, on the trip, and bragged what fine pancakes we would make.  As the first cakes came off the griddle placed over an open fire of coals, one of my co-workers said she was tasting soap after her first bite.  We were puzzled.  Then Sue said, “What oil did you use?”  I held up the small plastic container with which I had oiled the griddle.  “That isn’t oil,” she exclaimed, “that’s Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint soap for bathing!”  In my defense, she usually put cooking oil in a similar container, but had put the oil in a different vessel on this trip.

YUM! You can use this soap for just about everything - honest.

No problem.  I carefully rinsed the griddle and started making pancakes again.  My boss Peter, a man known for his hard work and his healthy appetite, asked for the first stack of cakes so that he could get over to the job site and begin planning for the day. Peter was half way through that stack of pancakes, when another diner mentioned that there was still a strong taste of soap in the cakes.  I do not believe I was old enough to have a senior moment in those days.  But it was to my chagrin that I realized, or remembered; I had also put what I thought was oil in the original batter.  Everyone laughed, some so hard you could see tears rolling down their cheeks.  There were two people however, that did not have a smile on their faces and did not find the situation humorous — Peter and me.  Both of our faces held an unhealthy pallor.  My face projected a bright red, while Peter looked a little pale.  It was then I heard what sounded to me like a thunderous roar, “Sopiwnik!”

I am not sure that Peter didn’t assign me to busting rocks down in that old cellar that day; a task I would have accepted without protest.  This was a story we didn’t tell in Peter’s presence for a long time after.  Did it affect our relationship?  The answer to that will stay on the road, unlike the retelling of this story.  In this season of merriment, and the greeting of the New Year, let us remember Auld Lang Syne and hope our old acquaintances and times together never are forgotten.  Merry Christmas Peter, members of Edmunds and Company Log Home Restorations and also to you dear reader!

Log home refinishing

Well, the log home refinishing and stain season has definitely come to an end. If you got your project done this summer, you can rest assured that your log home is protected. If your project got put off to next year, that’s OK too.

blasting

Don't do the blasting if you can't get the stain on it soon after.

It’s never too early to start thinking about the process of protecting your logs from the elements. There are always several steps in this process. Preparation is by far the most important and difficult to get right. Getting the surface of your logs ready to accept a stain may involve blasting off old, deteriorated finish, cleaning the logs with oxygen bleach or simply washing them with a garden hose. It all depends on the condition of your logs.

When the logs are “raw” after blasting, we recommend applying a  borate treatment to protect the logs against future rot. The final step in log home refinishing is applying a quality log home stain to the logs to protect them from the elements, including UV protection. Read on to learn more about different choices in stains, their advantages and disadvantages.

darkened stain

Darkened stain - before blasting

Log home stains are continually evolving and improving. Some stains that “in there day” were considered to be top-of-line have not stood the test of time. Certainly the improvements made are steps in the right direction. That said, I wish I could say that there is a “bullet-proof stain” as far as log home stains go but in our experience – there isn’t.

So what we look for are the good stains vs. the ones to stay away from. Our 30+ years of experience in the log home restoration business have resulted in a body of knowledge about refinishing and in particular – what type of stain to recommend to our customers.

new stain applied

After blasting and new stain applied

Once the all-important preparation is done, we recommend an application of what is generically called a “stain finish”. These are essentially a combination of three ingredients: UV blockers, a waterproofing sealant and finely ground pigments. From this combination we get a finish that protects the logs from the sun, the rain and keeps them looking good.

Pigments – People often ask me why the stains need pigment? The answer is that the pigments are also part of what constitutes the UV protection. They act somewhat like sunglasses for your building, protecting the waterproofing from breaking down in UV light. This need for pigment is evidenced by the fact that “clear” stains  (even from the  known “good” stain companies) don’t usually carry ANY warrantee.

UV protection – Simply put – UV protection protects the logs by blocking the sunlight’s ability to break down the waterproofing capability of the finish itself.  The UV blocker and the pigment are basically in service to this waterproofing sealant.

Waterproofing – The polymers in the stain’s base make it water repellant. The sealants ability to are protect the logs from water is the number one way to stave off rot. The stain’s water repellency is susceptible to breakdown by UV light and that is why pigments and UV protection (mentioned above) in combination with waterproofing create the “trifecta” of protection for your log home

Log home refinishing is not about just for the aesthetics of how your log home looks. It is first and foremost your best “insurance” against problems with rot down the road.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME REPAIR
Preparation done right
Advantages of borate preservative
A featured project of blasting and finishing

Log home repair – What can you put off until next year?

Now that the warm weather is behind us, we are busy finishing up the jobs we have lined up for the rest of our season. Once the snow flies, we take a break from log work and refinishing until next spring.

We are getting calls from people who are looking critically at their log homes and realizing that they are in need of some log home repair services.  They also realize that it is getting late in the season and they are wondering if it is detrimental for their logs if they wait until next year to have the repairs done.

blasting

Don't do the blasting if you can't get the stain on it soon after.

Here is some general advice: If you are thinking that the finish on your log home needs to be removed, but you are not sure you will be able to get it re-stained before the cold weather sets in, it is better to wait until spring to have the finish blasted off so that the new stain can be applied shortly following the blasting process. Letting logs go through a winter with no stain or protection on them is not advised.

What about logs that you know are rotten? Will they continue to rot over the winter and be even more deteriorated come spring? This is where cold weather is a benefit to logs with rot. The microorganisms that cause rot need to have temperatures in the 60-90 degree range. Once the temp drops below that range, the rotting process is halted temporarily until it warms up. Having said that, it is important to make sure that in the spring, the snow piles are not left to melt up against the logs. Moisture up against the logs is a problem waiting to happen.

cracks

A good example of checks that should be filled before winter.

The one thing that is advisable to do yet this fall is to check for cracks that are wider that ¼” and are on the up-facing side of the logs or in vulnerable places. Filling these checks with a quality caulk will keep the moisture from snow and rain from migrating into the logs and causing problems with rot. Click here for more information about filling checks and cracks in logs.

We are still doing estimates for people who are interested in having log home repair services done yet this year and we are also lining up projects for next spring. Give us a call at 877-378-4403 if you are interested in getting an estimate OR contact us via email.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME REPAIR

Top ten ways to protect your logs and your investment
Frequently asked questions
Common Problems

Log home dry rot and what can be done to resolve it

dry rotWe frequently get calls from log home owners saying, “My home has some dry rot.” When you look at the logs affected with rot, they DO look dry.

Whether the rot is dry or wet, rot equals decay and that is a serious problem in log buildings. Rot can lead to the need for replacing part or the entire log. There are several factors that can contribute to a log getting rot, but they all have to do with moisture getting into the wood. When wood fibers have a constant moisture level between 14-20%, wood will start to rot.

For more information on how we replace rotten logs, click here.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON PREVENTING LOG HOME DRY ROT

Why do logs rot?
What to look for when buying a log home
Proper way to flash a deck to a log wall

Log home refinishing – Best practices for removing old finish

In the log home refinishing business, we get asked many times each year about the advantages of blasting logs with a “dry” vs. “wet” process to remove old finish.

blasting off finishWe have found that in most cases, the blasting process or “dry” process (be it corn cob, crushed glass or sand) is the right process for the logs. Blasting uses compressed air to shoot a “media” at the building.  We use recycled glass now for most applications on the log homes we refinish because we are so impressed with the results we get.

Water blasting with a power washer is not our method of choice for several reasons:

  • Water is the enemy of logs. It is what causes rot and we don’t want to, in any way, contribute to this problem.
  • Power washers can damage the logs by destroying the grain or “fuzzing” the logs and creating long stringy rough surfaces.
  • Log homes are not completely air tight so water will make its way inside and this can cause staining on the interior logs, as well as create the potential for the development of dangerous indoor molds.

Blasting does little damage to the logs and keeps the log dry.  Power washing can cause ugly, stringy fuzz to be created.  I really don’t want to badmouth the folks that power wash but at a certain point one must look closely at the best practices here.

Here is another point to consider. If a power washer can be obtained for less than $500 and industrial-grade blasting equipment costs over $15,000, why would contractors choose blasting? The answer is that blasting simply works better and is less damaging to the logs in a number of ways.

We have been in the log home refinishing and restoration business for over 25 years.  We have removed every type of finish from log homes from the lightest semi-transparent stains to the thickest oil-based paints.

Here is a video of us blasting off finish:

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME REFINISHING:

Blasting vs. power washing
Here is a project we recently did
Why do logs rot?

Log home maintenance: Porcupines are chewing on my log home…

damage from porcupineLog home maintenance problems can come in all sorts of shapes and sizes but here is one that we hear about at least once every summer – porcupines chewing on the logs. In fact, three times over the last two months we have fielded calls from log home owners that have had this issue. This photo is a good example of the damage they can cause.

We asked Scott Cravin (Extension Wildlife Specialist and Professor of Wildlife Ecology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison) for an explanation. Here is what he said:

“Porcupines chew on all kinds of things…either to sharpen their teeth or because of some attraction in the glue, paint, sweat or whatever is on what they decide to chew on.

damage from porcupineSiding is usually attacked because of the bonding glue in plywood. Logs, as such, should not be much of an attraction unless whatever stain or preservative that is on them is attractive.

So….what to do? Corners and edges can be ‘armor-plated’ with angles of sheet metal, dry wall corners, hardware cloth, etc. but that may be unattractive. Repellents based on capsaicin (hot sauce is the active ingredient), thiram (a fungicide), or other mammal repellents could be applied. Even a small mesh bag of moth flakes/balls (napthalene) placed near damage may help. And there’s always the more direct approach of eliminating the offending animal. Good luck.” Scott Cravin

damage from porcupineIf your home is under attack by porcupines, you may want to consider following Scott’s advice, at least in the short run. If a porkie is gnawing off the finish on the logs, it is a good idea to take some measures to prevent it from continuing. At that point you will re-apply a good finish on your logs home.  To do this you will need to sand down the logs and reapply the stain.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS FOR LOG HOME MAINTENANCE:

Finishing log homes
Blasting log homes
A refinishing job we did in Gordon, WI

Log home problems – rotting log railings

rotten pine postLog home problems sometimes include rotting railings around a porch or deck. The look of log railings is often desirable but railings are prone to rot for a number of reasons.

To get the most longevity out of your log railings, here are three things that we recommend homeowners do to extend the life of their log railings:

  1. Use caps on the top of the posts. These are available from a number of different outlets on the web. The nicest ones I have seen are made of copper and fit snugly around the top of the post. It is important to glue them on rather than using screws. This helps insure that moisture can’t penetrate into the end grain around the screws.
  2. At the bottom rail, we recommend drilling a ¼” hole up from the bottom into each larger hole coming from the top. What we are doing here is giving the water that will inevitably make its way into this hole a place to go and drain out the bottom.
  3. post sitting on spacerWe recommend “stand-off” post bases. These create an air space between the end grain of the post and the ground or footing.  By placing these post bases between the bottom of the post and the ground, air is allowed to move through this area and dry out the post.

Doing all these three of these things will add life to log rails.

The last important thing to do is to keep a good finish on the railings.  The fact that they are typically out in the sun and rain makes it very important to keep good finish on the railings.

Unfortunately, this is easier said than done. Railings have so many surfaces and contours that they are a real pain to apply and keep stain on. None-the-less, it is important to keep a quality stain on them, which is part of the solution to maintaining and extending the life of the railings and keeping them from becoming a log home problem that you have to solve.

Log Home Maintenance – Top 10 ways to protect your log home and your investment

Log home maintenance, done on a routine basis, is your best homeowners insurance against costly repairs. Check this out:

darkened logs

Time for new stain.

1. Keep the finish on the exterior logs in good shape. This means checking it every year on every side of your house to make sure when you wet the logs, water will still bead up and the finish is not fading or graying.

2. Make sure the caulking or chinking between your logs is in good shape… no cracks or splits in it.

3. Make sure the decks on the home are flashed correctly and are not allowing moisture to be held up against the logs.

4. Caulk up-facing checks in your logs if they are ¼” wider or more or are in vulnerable places on your home, i.e. just above a deck surface or on a high gable wall.

Check for leaks in gutters

5. Keep gutters on your home functioning properly, i.e. not full of leaves or debris and not leaking. This will also help to keep the logs dry. Splash back from decks is the #1 cause of log rot.

6. Clean the exterior logs on your building once a year. Dust and pollen promote the start of decay.

chairs against the logs

Look familiar? Don't do this to your log home.

7. Keep deck furniture, grills, wood stacks, and other items away from the logs around the home. They can hold moisture against the logs, which can cause rot.

8. Make sure every log on the home is inside the “drip line” of the roof. In other words, makes sure water does not drip off the roof onto the logs. Logs exposed completely to the weather WILL rot… it  is only a matter of time. Consider installing gutters where water comes off of the roof and lands on a deck. Again, splash back from decks is the #1 cause of log rot.

9. Flashing around chimneys should be inspected every year for signs of leaking. This is a place where rot can take over very quickly.

10. Keep records of what has been done to your logs. This will help when  it comes time to refinish or when trying to explore causes of problems with the logs down the road. Click here for a checklist of things to look out for.

log cabinThese are the most important things you can do for good log home maintenance and to keep your log home in good shape. Being an astute log homeowner is very important to protecting your investment.

Seeing little things that need attention day-to-day or year-to-year will be the difference between minor fixes and major repairs.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS ON LOG HOME MAINTENANCE

Maintenance you can do yourself
How to check for rot
Log home common problems

Log restoration – Replacing crowns

rotten crown

Someone else had previously repaired this corner. Notice there the exposed remaining rot and the lack of a scribed fit.

Log restoration and replacing rotten logs is what we specialize in.

Sometimes we get calls from people who have hired other contractors do work on their log homes. We inspected this home this summer, where another contractor had replaced a crown a few years previously. As you can see, there are a few problems with this installation.

First of all – the log was not properly fit into the space. Sections of rot were not removed and the log chosen for the replacement was not as big as its predecessor.  Also pine was used as the replacement log.

rotten crown

Notice carpenter ants already working on this pine log. A dried cedar log is best used here.

In the short time since the log was installed, the wood boring insects have taken up residence. The rot has begun here and the efforts made to remove and install the new log were in vane.

The work needed to be done right the first time. Replacing rotten crowns is a time consuming process and the right size and species of replacement log needs to be used.

crowns replaced

Here is an example of a stack of crowns we replaced.

We use cedar kiln-dried logs because they will not rot or shrink.  We can also match the stain on our replacement logs to the surrounding logs, unlike this example.

RELATED LINKS AND TIPS FOR LOG RESTORATION SERVICES:

Replacing vertical logs

Replacing crowns

Why do logs rot?

Log home maintenance tips for new homes – Cleaning exterior logs with bleach

Log home maintenance includes all sorts of aspects for insuring that your log home stays “healthy”.  It is important to start out the life of a log home the right way.  In the course of working with new log homeowners on getting their log homes refinished and stained, I have run into some consistent confusion when it comes to the use of chlorine bleach and preserving log homes.

Before finishing new log homes for the first time, some builders and homeowners are using a highly concentrated mix of chlorine bleach and water (more than 8oz. of bleach per gallon). This solution is used to remove discoloration or molds left from the time that the building was under construction or from when the logs sat out in the elements. The problem with this method is that it can leave a residue and impregnate the logs with bleach and moisture, especially if a power washer is used. If this residue is left and it is not rinsed completely away, the results can be a failing finish in less than a year.

blasting log homeMost of finish companies do not want this highly concentrated chlorine bleach mixture applied to the logs prior to the application of their stains. In my opinion, one should first should try dry methods of cleaning the logs such as corn or glass blasting and if that doesn’t take care of the discoloration, then try oxygen bleach. Finally as a last resort – chlorine bleaching may be used.

Note: Applying a neutralizer or oxygen bleach after chlorine bleach before staining can be an effective way to get rid of residue and help ensure that no interactions occur.  With any of the “wet” methods of cleaning logs, a moisture meter needs to be used to make sure that the moisture content is at or below the recommended levels for the finish being applied.

RELATED LINKS AND MORE TIPS ON LOG HOME MAINTENANCE:

Log Home Maintenance

Dry Method Blasting

Oxygen Bleaching

Problems with Powerwashing